SOMER OF WINTER TOER?

“’n Hawe word gebou om veiligheid aan ‘n boot te verskaf, maar ‘n boot word nie gebou om in die hawe te bly nie”.

“Die mens is so geskape dat hy ongerief en pyn gou vergeet, terwyl aangename herinneringe vir ewig bly!”.

Dit is noodsaaklik om enige toer deeglik na te vors en goed ingeligte besluite te neem. Dit is byvoorbeeld absoluut absurd om byvoorbeeld ‘n ski vakansie in die noordelkike halfrond te beplan gedurende hulle somers. Net so is daar oorwegings vir toere in Afrika ook. Smaak verskil en so ook die behoeftes wat jy aan ‘n vakansie stel. Sommige individue verkies die veiligheid en gemak van Hotelle of Kamp Huisies terwyl ander juis avontuur en ‘n bietjie adrenalien najaag. Dan is daar die oorweging van die seisoene en tradisioneel word wildparke in die koeler maande deur die meerderheid verkies. Aan die einde is dit egter die ‘aangename” herrinneringe wat bepalend is.

 

‘n Week se kamp by Khutsi, Sundays Pan en Passarge Pan is reeds agter die rug. Ons skuil nou by Litiahau kamp in Sentraal Kalaharie onder die afdak van die Oz Tent. Die temperatuur is hoog in die veertigs en die die wind se go is ook uitgebrand. Nie Johan Zwiegers of ek praat ‘n woord met mekaar nie. Aan die boom langs die tent hang my plastieksak “stort” en wannneer ons onself genoeg kan motiveer om op te staan dan gaan “koel” jy maar jouself af met die lou warm water in die “stort”. Om alles te kroon, is ons gekoopte drinkwater op en moet ons maar ons dors les met onsmaaklike water wat ons oppad in die ingeboude tenk van die voertuig getap het (einlik net vir opwas doeleindes). Ons is op die rand van moedeloosheid. Oor een ding is ons dit eens. Ons sal nie gou weer in die somer in Sentraal Kalaharie kom ontspan nie. Uitgebrand! Biltong!

 Kwalik ‘n maand later (nadat ons liggaamstemperarture weer “normaal” bereik het), is die gevoel, wonderbaarlik, “daai was nou lekker ons moet definitief weer gaan”! Die hitte vergete. Trouens, soveel so dat ons in November van dieselfde jaar weer in die Kalaharie (Kalaghadi Oorgrens Park) kuier met die son wat weer dooierus op ons vat met temperature diep in die veertigs.

Ons bly aanvanklik by Rooiputs en Polentswa aan die Botswana kant.

Die hitte en beperkte water van die omgewing veroorsaak egter dat ons, in die sweet van ons aangesigte, by watergate en onder koeltebome binne effens meer as ‘n week 36 leeus, nege Jagluiperde, ‘n luiperd, ‘n menigte van roofvoȅls, ratels en jakkalse, wat ons vergas deur jag te maak op kelkiewyne

 

en duiwe, sien. By Mata Mata, koel ons weereens gereeld af deur sommer met klere en al in die swembad in te val. In teenstelling met Botswana is die Kalahari relatief droog gedurende daardie maande. Die feit dat ons eersdaags weer gedurende November in die Kalahari gaan kuier kan ‘n persepsie skep dat die absurde optredes moet beteken dat ons mal is oor die hitte! Verkeerde gevolgtrekking! Die seeninge van die ervarings, fotografiese geleenthede (en selfs die besoeke aan jou kamp! deur groot roofdiere) in die Kalahari gedurende die hoȅ temperature oortref by verre die “bietjie” ongemak van die hitte. Ek sal weer en weer gaan.

‘n Mens besoek nie Botswana in die reenseisoen nie” is die algemene raad wat ons kry, maar op Kersdag  ry ons saam met ons kinders (Solms en Alitha) Botswana binne. Ons ry aan die Weste kant op en gaan deur die Caprivi Botswana weer in die noorde binne. By ons kamp naby Kasane staan modder besmeerde 4X4’s – mense wat vanuit die suide (Moremi en Savuti) tot hier gery het. Ons kry baie raad en word ook (bangmaak)foto’s gewys van wat vir ons voorlê. Dit is die reenseisoen en ons is verseker dat ons gaan vassit, maar ons het die goeie raad gekry om onder sulke omstandighede net nie paniekerig te raak nie, maar om eenvoudig uit te klim jou graaf op te neem en pad te bou. Goeie raad want vassit het ons en die raad het gewerk. Ons ry gly, gly deur ‘n eindelose klomp (soms verbasend diep) poele (wat aldus Alitha) dikwels so onskuldig op die oppervlakte vertoon.Die wereld vanaf Chobe en Savuti tot by Moremi is ‘n ware paradys. Wild is volop en olifante kom wei selfs reg deur ons kamp. ‘n Belewenis. By Savuti dwing die son ons om bykans heel dag in die skaduwee van die groot Kameeldoringboom in die middel van ons kampplek te skuil. Die pragtige groen natuurskoon vergoed die egter by verre vir hitte. En die vassit? Wat ‘n avontuur en storie om oor te vertel!

Gedurende die volgende Julie besoek ons Zimbabwe. Ons verkluim byna by die Matobo kamp. Die toer is verder  deur  Hwangi, deur Chobe (rivier pad) en die Caprivi (Nambwa Kamp) na Etosha. Ons sien baie wild oral en geniet veral beindruk Masuma Dam in Hwangi, terwyl ons Sinamatella Kamp baie geniet. Chobe is altyd ‘n besonderse aantrekking maar hier is die verskil tussen Winter en Somer weidingstoestande is groot. Chobe is neerdrukkend droog en laat ons terug dink aan hoe mooi dit is na die reen. Horshoe Bend op die Kwando rivier naby die Nambwa kamp is wonderlik en Etosha is natuurklik altyd iets besonders.  Ons toer weereens lekker maar die Winter toestand in Chobe bly maar in ons agterkoppe.

Nie lank daarna nie, ry ons weereens op Kersdag, Botswana by die Bray grenspos binne. Dit is Somer en reenseisoen. Ons weet sommer dat dat ons weer baie water gaan raak ry maar weet ook dat dit bydra tot die avontuur – op voorwaarde dat jy daar deur kom. Ons ry ons vas teen ‘n “meer” wat ons pad versper en byna, byna  wil ons saamstem dat “’n mens nie Botswana besoek in die reenseisoen nie”! Ons vind egter ‘n ompad en die avontuur gaan voort! Die veldtoestande is prentjie mooi vanaf Maghoto (Community Campsite) deur Savuti tot by die asemrowende Chobe. Te spyte daarvan dat die wild hierdie keer (as gevolg van die wonderlike veldtoestand effens minder is, het ons wonderlike ervarings. Ons sien by verskeie geleenthede wilde honde, olifante, buffels, leeus (sonder dat daar 100 voetuie om hulle parkeer is) en die”gewone” wild en baie REEN.  Die omgewing is so mooi dat ons ‘n groot blymoedigheid ervaar en die tyd geweldig geniet. Die kersie op die koek is toe, op ons laaste dag, n groot trop buffels, laat middag teen die Chobe rivier af by ons kamp verby gewei kom en ‘n trop wilde honde in die teenoorgestelde rigting die buffels tegemoet gaan. Die “hello” sê is vriendelik kortstondig en elkeen gaan voort in hulle eie rigting. Sal ek weer in die reensseisoen deur Botswana toer. Verseker maar!!!!!

   

In die boek van John Krakauer “Into the Wild” oor die lewe van Chris McCandles skryf hy dat sy laaste woorde, voordat hy eensaam van uitputting en koue omgekom het, was “Geluk is alleenlik moontlik indien dit met iemand anders gedeel kan word”! Dit is my ondervinding dat dit nie saak maak waarheen jy toer en hoe veeleisend of maklik ‘n toer is nie, maar jou reisgenote is absoluut bepalend van die genot van die toer!

Kruger National Park July 2014

We are so blessed with som of the best Game parks in South Africa. In South Africa alone, my favourates are the Kalaghadi Trans Frontier Park and Kruger National Park. So it follows that I just had to convince my family that our next family holiday needs to be in the latter. So during July we spent our holidays at Shingwedzi, Letaba , Satara and Lower Sabi. Apart from the fact that you can never miss a large predator spotting (since it will be hidden behind a hundred vehicles, who once found treats it selfishly as their sole possession), sightings and opportunities abound. There are naturally also the odd occasion where you are blessed to have a special moment just for you.

Shingwedzi remains to be special particularly because it is never really crowded and its camp sites are big. Letaba’s Camp is arguably the best of the lot although game viewing may not be that good in this area. On the contrary, Satara (if you are fortunate enough to get a booking) is the ultimate for game viewing. Having said that, the park is full of surprises and we have had wonderful sightings on many roads from the north right to the south. Sightings along the Sabi River (H4-1) are very often full of surprises while a bit of patience at Sunset Dam near lower Sabi are equally rewarding.

Here Follow a few photo’s of our experiences during this visit.

Game Viewing????

Now don't iriitate me!

On the hunt.

Friends?

Spotted.

Got you!

Only two carrs!!!

Not so friendly chap in musth.

BOTSWANA 2015 – WEER IN DIE SOMER (en in Kort)

Neem kennis van ons vuurtjie. Gaan nog Braai!!!

Verskuil onder die braai plek van ons kamp by Ihaha beur die droë Mopaniehout vuurtjie moedig voort teen vlaag op vlaag swaar reen buie wat van Wes na Oos al langs die Chobe rivier  en oor ons beweeg. Solms en my oë draai heen en weer vanaf die vlae harde reen, wat geen tekens van ‘n einde toon nie, 

Toeriste op Wild (Reen??) kyk rit.

Vroeër vanmiddag is ons uit Kasane weg en het ons die toeneel van toeriste op wildkykvoertuie toegewikkel in  reenjaste, soos nat hoenders op ‘n stellasie, in hierdie gietende storm reen nogal erg ammusant gevind. Paaie het vinnig verander in strome. Reeds vroeer op ons reis het ons swaar reen gehad, maar dit is seker te wagte want dit is dan Botswana se reen seisoen.

Die vraag is dan: “Nou waarom besoek ;n mens Botswana in die reenseisoen?” Want…………………..!

Op 24 Desember vertrek Solms, Alitha en hulle kinders Gerhard en Anna-marie vanaf Durbanville en ek vanaf Port Elizabeth. Ons hou ons ou Kersaand ete by die Neutedop Gastehuis op Vryburg. Kersdag steek ons die grens oor by Bray en ry met ‘n tipiese Botswana sandpaadjie oor Khakhea en Sekoma na Ghanzi. By die Tautona Lodge kampplek sluit Michael en Heidie Ansley en hulle kinders Owen, Aden en Mika by ons aan. Ons toer is nou voltallig. Sewe volwassenes en vyf kinders in ‘n Toyota Fortuner, Toyota Raider en ‘n Landrover Discovery 3. Goeie teelaarde vir die gewone (goedige) aanmerkings. Van hier af ry ons die volgende dag na Maun waar ons by Audi Kamp oornag nadat ons die kamp geriewe beproef het. Heerlik! More is dit Moghoto, n Kwai Gemeenskaps Kamp. 

Die ondersoek span.

Die bevinding!

Ten spyte van vrese oor moeilike diep water ry ons voorspoedig – tot ‘n groot 4x4 vragmotor ons van vooraf bereik. Goeie teken! Dit beteken tog seker dat die pad verder noord oop is, maar die vragmotor stop. Enkele kilometers verder is die water te diep en hy het eerder besluit om terug te draai Maun toe. Ons ry egter voort en kom by die water. Vele tekens van spore wat u-draaie gemaak het stook al reeds ‘n negatiewe gees. Solms en Michael toets die bodem soos wat dit goeie 4x4ders betaam. Die eerste stukkie lyk nogal belowend maar halfpad sak die twee skielik middellyf se koers in die water in. Te diep en modderig. Is dit die einde van die Botswana vakansie waarna ons soooo uitgesien het? Die bestuurder van die vragmotor het egter gemeld dat daar erens ‘n ompad is en ons gaan soek. Na ‘n wye draai kom ons aan die anderkant van die water op die pad en ry ewe triomfantelik voort. Teen middag bereik ons kampplek nommer twee op die Kwai Rivier. Ons tuiste vir drie dae. Te pragtig. Moghoto is alles en meer as wat ons gehoor het en dit hou vir ons twee verassings in – nee drie! Ons slaan kamp op en probeer dit so veilig moontlik maak teen die inwonende Hiënas. Verder besluit ons om, vir veiligheid elke aand voor donker klaar te braai en te eet! Alles werk volgens plan. Ons eet na sononder. Die hyena daag bietjie later op, kou aan Michael se vrieskas en aas lekker biltong. Nodeloos om te se, die vrieskas is nie weer buite gelaat is nie en die besoeker was elke aand op sy pos,

Gereelde Besoekers.

Ons sien die normale vlakte wild (rooibokke, zebra’s, kameelperde, waterbokke, koedoes) seekoeie en ‘n verskeisdenheid van voëls (fisante, neushoring voels, wilde makoue, lel kraanvoels, oop bek ooievaars, langtone, kolganse, eendjies, kiewiete, dikkoppe, en verskillende roofvoëls).  Die twee meer aangename verassings  is die trop wildehonde wat ons naby ons kampplek raakloop (en wat later besoek kom aflê by ons kamp) en letterlik honderde Geelbek Woue wat vlieende rysmiere jag. ‘n Fotograaf se droom!!

Na drie dae in hierdie paradys vertrek ons na Savuti waar ons net vir een nag oorstaan. Die omgewing bly ongelooflik mooi groen en in teenstelling met die winter maande wil mens se gees sommer spontaan sing “Al die veld is vrolik”! Op pad kry ons verskeie olifante, een wat glad nie gelukkig met ons skielike verskeining is nie en dit duidelik wys. Ons toon eerbare respek en laat toe dat die reus se bloeddruk eers bedaar voordat ons verby skuur. Kort voor Savuti kry ons ses leeus wat, dik gevreet, dig by die pad, in die koelte van ‘n boom lê. Te pragtig. Die middag word ons weereens vereer met die besoek van ‘n trop wilde honde en na donker kom die inwonende hyena ook besoek afle.

Naby Savuti.

Ons pak die volgende oggend op om na Ihaha op die Chobe rivier te ry. Skielik raak ons goedige gespot met die Landrover ‘n bietjie te na aan die been, toe dit viervoet vassteek – duidelik alternator, elekties en gevolglik elektroniese probleme hier in die middle van nerens (bykans 200 km vanaf Maun en 170 km vanaf Kasane) en met geen selfoon ontvangs nie. Na ons eie onsuksesvolle pogings gee die Savuti kantoor vir ons die nommer van ‘n werktuig kundige van Maun en kontak word gemaak. Daar is hoop. Om ‘n lang storie kort te maak, bly die Ansleys vir vier dae op Savuti agter in afwagting van onderdele voordat hulle verder kan reis.

Chobe leeus met kroos

Teen middag vertrek die twee Toyotas na Ihaha met die “Sand Ridge Road”. Na baie modder poele en sand spore bereik ons Ihaha. Ons kamp (Nommer 4) verleen ‘n pragtige uitsig oor die Chobe rivier en oor die vier dae wat ons daar uitspan is ons weer bevooreg om (anders as die “gewone” wild – sooo bederf) verskeie leeus van naby te beskou (en sonder dat dit toegepak is met honderde ander voertuie). As gevolg van die vroeë reens en pragtige veld toestande is daar is merkbaar minder olifante teen die rivier as in die verlede. Op die terugreis vind ek egter olifante al langs die pad sover Suid as Nata (300 km). Op Ihaha word ons ook elke aand deur die inwonende hyenas besoek. Op die laaste aand, terwyl ons rusrtig ‘n skemerkelkie sit en geniet en die pragtige natuur bewonder, kom ‘n groot trop buffels uit die Ooste teen die rivier af gewei in die rigting van ons kamp. Terwyl ons, ons in die verskysel verlustig, verskyn ‘n trop wildehonde vanuit die Weste en beweeg in die rigting van die trop buffels. Wyslik besluit die wilde honde egter om die groter spesie te respekteer en nie skoor te te soek met die buffels nie en draf styf teen hulle verby.

Buffels met wildehonde wat kom kennis maak.

Net terloops, terwyl mense op forums dikwels kritiek het oor netheid van die Botswana Parke se ablusie geriewe, was dit gereeld skoon gehou tydens ons besoek!

Solms en Alitha vier hulle 18de huweliksherdenking by die Chobe River Safari Lodge op Kasane en Pappa word gelukkig uitgenooi. Heerlik!

Die volgende oggend is ek hartseer om afskeid van my kinders wat hulle reis voortsit deur die Caprivi na Ngepi en Drotski’s Cabins voordat hulle terug keer na Durbanville, asook dat hierdie wonderlike seening op die Chobe nou tot ‘n einde kom. Soos gesê word:”Vreugde is net werklik vreugde as dit met iemand gedeel kan word”. Hierdie toer het aan alles voldoen!

Die volgende dag vat die lang pad Suid, Port Elizabeth toe en ry die 2200 km huistoe oor twee dae.

Kaokoland - 7 to 18 September 2014

“Why don’t you just keep the camera in your hand instead of taking it out ever second minute”. Ever had the experience that every scene justifies another photo? Let alone the camps.  We all met at Windhoek where adventure started with a BANG! As if the itinerary was not already packed with several ultimate adventures offered by this wonderful and pristine part of Namibia, the introductory dinner at Joe’s Beer house in Windhoek gave the tour a huge kick start. To say thank you to our tour leader, Hennie Pieterse of Imbizo Safari’s at this stage would be totally premature since many “thank you’s” were to come! The group of 17 People in nine vehicles, now properly psyched up by the previous evening’s experience, embarked on the long stretch to the Epupa falls via Opuwo. In contrast to my previous visit to Epupa some 12 years ago, things changed remarkably. Now a tar road runs all the way to Opuwo followed by a good dirt road from Opuwo to Epupa. Opuwo had now also expanded to a large settlement. At Opuwo all cars and other containers were filled up with Diesel in preparation for seven day’s travel before diesel would be available again (hopefully).

The falls are just impressive, particularly if you go to the trouble of climbing the hill overlooking the falls. So were the few young Himba girls in traditional dress (?) who came to our camp to impress all.

The spirit gathered at Joe’s Beer House held its momentum throughout the two days at Epupa terminating in a party and “compulsory” late night cooling of at the camp’s pool.

Epupa Falls

Himba Girls

Himba 

Hennie Explaining then way down van Zyl's Pass

Hennie Leading the way

Marienfluss Valley

The Group 

This Landrover just would not start!

The Hartman Valley and Himba Girls 

Rooi Drom!

Blou Drom - No Reception

Hima Herders with their flock.

Through the Hartmann Mountains

Purros Camp

Amms Poort

Hoanib River

Sundown 

Ugab River Camp.

Day three saw Hennie leading us to our “camp” near the top of van Zyl’s Pass. We pitched camp for a night under the stars and had a visit from a Himba tending his cattle. Although we could not understand what he asked us for, he never the less loaded every gift onto his donkey and rode off, after his brief visit, smoking a cigarette. A much more subdued evening. (Consequences of the previous evening or anticipation of van Zyl’s Pass??). We reached the pass after a few preparatory challenging “climbs” where, with Hennie’s guidence, we were led carefully down Van Zyl’s the Pass. “Slowly, Careful now. A little left. More. Straight. No! No brakes! Ok, you re through”. The expression in the vehicle one of victory. (But why then the perspiration? Adrenalin?) Then, halfway down the pass, the breath taking view over the plains of the Marienfluss. This may be a premature statement as regards this report, but the scenes and scenery of the endless expanse of this barren part of the world never ends. All along the way we meet with Himbas and their herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats which are in a remarkable condition despite the grazing being extremely dry and short. We stop for a moment at the Jan Joubert memorial where we add 17 stones with ou r names written on it to the already impressive collection. The expanse of the Marienfluss valley is so impressive, but so is every next scene. Then on to our next camp under the stars in the Hartman Mountains.

With the arrangement that the occupants of every car is responsible for supper on one allocated evening, it soon developed into a significant competition. Obviously this escalated as the safari progressed. Every next supper hoping to outdo the previous. Suppers grew to include snacks with special dips, main course with side dishes and puddings (Yes! And that in the desert). As the competition escalated, the competitors had to add to the standard of the previous cooks. The courses then included some sponsored drinks with Jägermeister to wash it all down. What a feast. Needless to say we all went to bed in good spirits.

We drive through the Hartman Valley with its interesting Fairy Circles and often small herds of Oryx, springbok and zebra. Memories are made with “special” photos at the renowned Blue and Red drums. Our next destination, the luxury of Marble Camp with its hot water showers and real toilets!

The next day we drove down the Khumib and Hoanib riverbeds through some spectacular mountain scenery to our camp near Purros hoping to meet with some desert elephants. No such luck.   

On the eighth day we drive through Purros, across the equally impressive and endless Ganias Flats. Then we enter the Hoanib River (dry!) and again wish to spot some desert elephants which often frequent this stretch. We find several giraffe and kudu instead. We pitch another bush camp in an exceptionally beautiful spot in the shade of a hill on the banks of the Hoanib river.

We travel further in the Hoanib river and although we again see giraffe, Oryx and springbuck, the elusive elephants are presumably further south. We passed through the Poort and later through Ams Poort before we exited the river bed and drove to Sesfontein. Not only was the diesel supply a relief for several, but so was the pool, refreshments and a light lunch at Fort Sesfontein. Our next camp at Palmwag was again bliss with hot water showers and YES ELEPHANTS. They came to find us and that right at our camp!!! (Unfortunately and unbeknown to Hennie, Palmwag lodge and ablution blocks were under construction with several ablutions out of use). Even so, we had a great time.

Day eleven saw us driving south for a brief stop and a bite at the Burnt Mountain before continuing along the jeep track through an area of rolling hills consisting of rocks and more rocks. The route took us over the interesting Divorce Pass and down another river track to the interesting Ugab River Camp. Here we were warned that the area around our campsite is frequently visited by lions. While it certainly raised some eyebrows, strangely enough, this concern appeared to gradually become of minor importance as the evening progressed.

Kgalagadi and Friends

For me the statement that “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone” works. The Kgalagadi threw itself at us both in all its meanness and its wonderful abundance. Drought, temperatures hovering around the mid forties daily and pleasant surprises around every corner was the norm. When this is shared with quality friends who found joy in every moment that mother nature could provide, it all augers for great joy. My university roommate of more than half a century ago (Dr Francois (Faf) Malan) who was thrown into the deep end of camping, accompanied me and Johan Zwiegers (Hanz Zwiegers Photography) on a camping safari through the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park at the beginning of November. The itinerary would include Rooiputs (three days), Polentswa (two days) , Nossob and Mata,Mata (each three days).

True to tradition, on our first night at Rooiputs, the lions roared uncomfortably close to our tents, so much so that Johan, who was sleeping in a very small hiking tent pleaded for refuge in our Oz Tent. For the moment he was totally out of his comfort zone. As unsympathetic as his uninterrupted snoring was to me, Faf made him “understand clearly” that there was not enough space for comfort in our tent but gave him several “wise” actions that he could apply in self defence. It worked because Johan was still around at dawn the next day. With Rooiputs as base we found Kij Kij waterhole very rewarding (lion, doves and sand grouse) and on a circular drive around the lower Dune Road we met with Neil and Lynne Hunter in their mobile home who told us that there were two cheetahs on a kill at the Auchterloni waterhole. We were even more fortunate when the two came running right past us soon after we stopped. Then followed two lions (Leeudril) obviously suffering from the heat and several secretary birds (Rooiputs waterhole). Late afternoon we again found a lion at Kij Kij. The next morning early (en route to Polentswa) four cheetah crossed the road right in front of us and twenty kilometres south of Polentswa, three female and one heavily maned male lion relaxed right next to the road.

Polentswa waterhole produced. Over the two days, in addition to plains game, lion, black backed jackals and many raptors (Bataleur Eagles, Roof Arende and Vultures) would entertain us and provide wonderful photographic opportunities.

On our drive to move camp to Nossob we found nine lions at Kwang. We were fortunate to see Kudu at Cubitje Quap, but the resident jackal entertained us with absolutely cunning hunting skills when he managed to catch six sand grouse in approximately 20 minutes and then included a fight with a visiting jackal. We were also fortunate to see an African wild cat with a ground squirrel kill. While lions roared around the camp every night, Johan, our delegated nightly representative at the camp waterhole was rewarded with one sighting of a lion and brown hyena.

Take note that with daily temperatures in the mid forties we drank in access of three litres of water daily. As a result of the drought every waterhole as well as ablution facilities had a large population of honey bees. With two allergic companions it created all but a comfortable environment. In fact, while taking a shower, Johan was stung by a bee, but with Faf (our personal doctor in attendance) he suffered no ill effects.

The Mata Mata area added Giraffes to the variety of game and the Craig Lockhard waterhole treated us with good sightings of the latter and of cheetahs. The visit of three lions to the camp waterhole at 20h00 was a pleasant surprise. At the camp even any hope of a slight cooling breeze deserted us day and night. It was so hot that early morning drives were followed by returning to camp to find refuge in the shade of out tent under the Camel thorn tree with regular visits to the swimming pool where you would submerge yourself “boots and all”. Another character of this area is that, in contrast to the other camps, there is only one road which one can travel. This obviously results in that there could be more congestion at waterholes and at sightings.

The cherry on the cake came on our way out via Twee Rivieren with a sighting of a leopard just south of Auchterloni.

In summary, in addition to Giraffes and all the normal plains game (Springbok, Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok) which we as spoilt South Africans so often regard as standard, we saw a total of 27 lions (seven sightings), 9 cheetahs (three sightings) and a leopard. Because of the dry conditions, patience at select waterholes (for us Kij Kij, Cubitje Quap, Polentswa, Craig Lockhart and Dalkeith was good) rather than driving through the park, was most rewarding and made for excellent photographic opportunities. May I add, that at almost all of these sightings, blocking of views by other vehicles were rare! Kgalagadi and quality friends impressed!!!!

Half a century of Kruger National Park

Somewhere earlier in this blog I have listed the number of parks which we have visited over the years. Most of these, particularly those to the north of South Africa, has been during the past two decades. However, I have been introduced to the Kruger National Park in 1848 at the age of six years. I can still vividly recall being impressed by seeing so many impala, blue wildebeest and zebra within a few kilometers of entering the park en route to Pretorius Kop. Little did we know what numbers of Impala we would see ove the following days. We stayed in the rondavels of which I found a photo recently at the Pretorius Kop reception.

Pretorius Kop 1948

Later on at Skukuza we found a tented camp which to me was almost as big as the little town, in the Eastern Cape, from which we came. I remember that my sister got the fright of her life when she walked out in the middle of the night to investigate a noise from outside. She met with the hyena who turned the dustbin over. (In contrast to nowadays it was highly unlikely to be a burglar). We saw "all" the game that my little memory could accommodate and it stuck there for many years. My next visit was only some 30 years later in the early 70's. The Park was as impressive with several new, but more subtle developments.

Berg en Dal 2012

 But as for the country, several things have changed also in Kruger National Park over the years. The most noticable is certainly the popularity of the park both to local  as to  foreign tourists. Oviously, in response to its popularity and tourist demands, the acommodation and facilities have, particularly since the eighties, been upgraded to a high standard. Many camps now have shops, restaurants, decks from which to view game while having something to eat or drink, swimming pools and offer entertainment and information evenings for the children. Picnic spots have been developed for further convenience of the tourists.

Letaba

 These developments further contribute to the popularity of the park. While these developments are enjoyed by all, it is understandable that with such popularity some more "personal" experiences have become few and far between. It is now hardly necessary to attempt to spot lions or leopards. Where such sightings have been made you will find quite a large number of cars which compete with each other for the best position. The matter is further by game drive vehicles which claim the right to the best spot.

In the earlier days, there were spots where you were allowed to leave the safety of your car and walk to selected spots where you will find your safety from a ranger armed with a .303 rifle.

But as they say: "The old days were always good!" Having said that, something that will always be good is the beauty of the park, its fauna and flora. Since every park has its own attractions and character to go and enjoy, it is unfair and wrong to to compare and compete. I go to the lot as often as I can. Even so, I have been visited the Kruger National Park several times and will certainly go there again and again. After my first experience more half a century ago, I still rate it as one of the best.