Faces of the Namib

“Are you enjoying to be a teenager again?” That is the feeling that progressively develop as you cross the Namib Desert from East to West. This tour, which was organised by Ian Rust of Safari Centre, Port Elizabeth in conjunction with Imbizo Safari’s and which is run by Uri Adventures of Namibia, starts at Solitaire and ends in Walfish Bay. So on 6 May a mixed bag of 21 people in an equally collection of 4x4’s met at Solitaire Guest Farm where the 5 day adventure started. Our guide Simon, was assisted by Johnny and Patric. What fun it was to be part of a positive and happy group of people led by an able team who turned an adventure into loads of fun and yet leaving us at the end of the tour with a lot of knowledge of and respect for the Namib Desert. However, this is not an adventure that can be captured since the vastness of the expanse, the beauty of the desert, the emotions of the participants and the adrenalin boosted exhilaration is simply lost in the flatness of the paper and limitations of the ink. I have been told so beforehand and now I also know that it must be experienced!

The morning of 7 May each vehicle was fitted with a radio and after a radio check the train of 4x4’s lined up and entered the Namib Naukluft National Park of some 34,000 square kilometres, founded in 1907, which was to be our home for the next five days. Right from the outset it was clear that we were extremely fortunate to experience the Namib desert in an exceptional year with waist high grass waving like corn fields from horizon to horizon. After having been given the code of conduct by Simon, including that everything (including toilet paper) that is brought into the Park is taken out of the park, the route took us over the undulating terrain, past odd groups of Gemsbuck, away from the Saagberge to Homeb next to the Kuiseb Canyon – Topnaar country. The 150 km travelled was in typical red Kalahari sand tracks. Here we camped – to be spoilt with a supper prepared by the crew.

The day two terrain was a bit more demanding on both vehicles and drivers. Needles to say that it was also the start of the Brand competition. Some doing better than others and some doing…. well not better. Gradually the pecking order was established with some people becoming more arrogant and other more humble. Now drivers also started knowing their vehicles better and tackled the obstacles with more confidence. All along the way, Simon would intermittently share his knowledge about the desert, its geology, fauna and the history of the area with us over the radios. The absolute indescribable beauty of the area, vastness of the landscape and the challenges of the undulating dunes made for a irresistible smiles around the camp fire. BUT the best was yet to come.

Going west in the direction of the coast was the direction for day three. We were now into proper dunes, with the route dictated by same. It now really put vehicle and driver to the test. The results ranged from smiles on the faces of those on top of the dunes to less optimistic smiles from those who got there via the “escape” route. The confidence of some people had now reached levels which made them giggle uncontrollably at the sight of any of the huge rollercoaster dunes. Little did they know that, for them the best was yet to come. Again the enormity of the panoramic views cannot be described let alone be captured in a photograph. Absolutely beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. We camped at Olifantsbad where we were to stay for two days in the company of numerous very tame gerbilles (mice). Vehicles were now unpacked to make it as light as possible for the challenges which was to come the next day.

The first very dune for day four on our way to Conception Bay and ConceptionWater was already quite something. We stopped at the wreck of the Edward Bolin and found many black backed jackals along the coast. Then back inland and now the game was really on, dune higher and so the speed. At one huge rollercoaster dune, downhill speeds exceeding 100 km per hour was reached in order to conquer the climb to the top on the other side. Johnny’s voice on the radio now urged the drivers on with: “Jy moet hom TRAP Pappie ……. Gooi, gooi, gooi!!!” Men became boys again!

Back at Olifantsbad the crew entertained us with the most wonderful supper of superb steak and side dishes. Amazing.



On the final day, we travelled to one of the earlier mining towns (now almost totally deteriorated) where water had to be pumped eighty kilometres to supply the town! From there the route followed the coast where we stopped to enjoy the beauty of Sandwhich Harbour. Then inland again for a bit more fun and games. The grand finale brought even bigger smiles to the faces of the “teenagers” with the big petrol engine driven vehicles screaming down an almost endless dune in order to conquer the steep incline facing them. PW in his 4.5 litre Landcruiser bakkie nearly overshot the dune on the return run and made the most spectacular “4x4 brake crash landing”. Even the very experienced Simon and Johnny could not contain their smiles when they were offered Bastiaan’s FJ Cruiser. No wonder, they clocked 137 mks per hour at the bottom!



Then back along the coast to Walfish Bay for a farewell dinner and sad faces because it has come to an end. This trip is and will remain an absolutely unmatchable experience, not only because of the exhilarating dune rides, but indescribable the vastness and beauty of the Namib!

Soul of the Kalahari

The introductory information about the tour stated that: “The Kalahari Concession Area (which would be our home for the next five days) is highly restricted and a Bushman guide will be your only GPS, map, tracker and story teller…….. Beneath your wheels it is more or less the same low range terrain all the time – sand and thick sand to boot, that will make the fully loaded vehicles sweat. ……. Your car will pick up some scratches. ….. You are desperately far from civilisation, people don’t come into the area, there is no water and one moment you drive over Kalahari dunes and the next you’re on the savannas again. Should you manage to get a signal for help through, how will they ever find you in this wilderness?” Over the next five days we were to learn that this information was rather subtle, but let us get to the real story.

If getting away is what you want, then this is it, provided you get away with a group of positive people. The group of seven vehicles containing 17 people, drove from the Western Cape, Eastern Cape and Gauteng to meet at the Boereplaas camp site near Vryburg as an overnight stop. From here the route was via Bray on the Botswana border on to Cornwell Lodge where we camped. Here Mr Man, our tracker (GPS and map), joined and guided us along the sand track towards Mabuasehube from which we turned off to camp at Heinie’s Pan some 20 km north of the Khokotsa - Mabuasehube road on an overgrown jeep track. We all had seed covers over our radiators, but the one meter high grass necessitated regular stops to remove grass seeds from the radiators and particularly around the exhaust areas to prevent it igniting. This procedure continued for the next five days. We pitched camp on a spot overlooking the pan and had a lovely relaxed evening. Having now “thawed” and having become too comfortable with each other, over the following days, humour and chirps escalated exponentially to an unequalled level and was maintained throughout the rather trying trip – happiness in Africa proved to be the Kalahari mixed with this group.

Although we were warned that this is lion country, as is often the case, complacency sets in, particularly under the influence of the tranquillity of the area. So, the next morning, minutes after Johan returned from a casual stroll in the bush armed with toilet paper and a shovel, some lions passed the very spot where he had sat. Mr Man showed us the lion’s “camp”, where they rested for the night, which proved to be an uncomfortably 100 meters from our camp.

The second day saw us return to the sand track leading to Mabuasehube which we entered and drove past Monamodi, Mabuesehube, Lesholoago and Maputhathulwa Pans before returning to Heinie’s Pan. With the pans dry, game was limited and only a few springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest, blue wildebeest, vultures and jackal were sighted. From here we again drove into the concession area. Now, with no roads to follow, we were at the mercy of Mr Man, the tracker to direct us to various pans with several tight squeezes through the bush accompanied by many chirps, remarks and “advice” over the radios. We pitched camp, a little more aware of the fact that we were in fact intruders in the game and more importantly the lion’s domain. However, as the evening progressed “bravery” and sharp witted remarks again took over without any further thought given to this fact.

The Day Four route was a slow barely forty kilometres. The route not only necessitated tight squeezes through the bushes but now also occasionally required having to drive over the odd bush. We reached “camp” around lunch time and pitched camp to enjoy another beautiful Kalaghadi sunset. After supper the discussion point was whether the growing cloud cover predicted rain. By bed time, one of the more confident forecasters of rain, did not trust his own prediction and was hell bent on going to sleep on the pan. With threats from all sides he was eventually convinced not to go, so, to enjoy the Kalaghadi air, he pitched his tent without a fly sheet. By about one o’clock his forecast proved right. A rather confused rush around in total darkness and rain, in an attempt to cover the tent with a now missing fly sheet and with several onlookers chirping from their tents, followed. A bit later, lions, passing on the edge of the pan, just below our camp, roared continuously, accompanied by the sound of tent zips being closed with speed. Their tracks were followed the next day, but it veered of into the bush, which we were advised not too follow on foot!

Day five again was a drive further west through (and over) thick bush including driving along the edges of several pans. The pans were now pretty wet and treacherous so that the our route had to be skilfully selected by Hennie in his big Cruiser. He led us up a gentle incline to the edge of a huge dune overlooking the Kalahari plains stretching for many kilometres in all directions to the horizon. What a sight! We then returned to …………….. pan where we camped and amidst the sharp humour of the group, together with the Gemsbuck grazing on the pan enjoyed the tranquillity of the Kalaghadi sun set.

It rained all night so that our departure for the Kaa concession area was somewhat delayed. The Kaa area was absolutely stunning and was covered with lush meter high grass from horizon to horizon. No wonder that it accommodates two herds of springbuck estimated at six thousand each. While a previous group enjoyed this spectacle, they are not bound to the road and although we saw several smaller groups of springbuck, we may be more lucky next time!

Our route continued to Kang via Hukuntsi and back to the Cornwell Lodge for a much needed hot water shower and another entertaining evening with Mr Man giving us a repeat performance of his busman dance. All that remained was a good sleep and a long return trip to our homes, but this would certainly not be the end. Good friendships had been moulded with the fellow tourists and a permanent bond with the expanses of the Kalaghadi Concession area. There will certainly be a next time!