Faces of the Namib

“Are you enjoying to be a teenager again?” That is the feeling that progressively develop as you cross the Namib Desert from East to West. This tour, which was organised by Ian Rust of Safari Centre, Port Elizabeth in conjunction with Imbizo Safari’s and which is run by Uri Adventures of Namibia, starts at Solitaire and ends in Walfish Bay. So on 6 May a mixed bag of 21 people in an equally collection of 4x4’s met at Solitaire Guest Farm where the 5 day adventure started. Our guide Simon, was assisted by Johnny and Patric. What fun it was to be part of a positive and happy group of people led by an able team who turned an adventure into loads of fun and yet leaving us at the end of the tour with a lot of knowledge of and respect for the Namib Desert. However, this is not an adventure that can be captured since the vastness of the expanse, the beauty of the desert, the emotions of the participants and the adrenalin boosted exhilaration is simply lost in the flatness of the paper and limitations of the ink. I have been told so beforehand and now I also know that it must be experienced!

The morning of 7 May each vehicle was fitted with a radio and after a radio check the train of 4x4’s lined up and entered the Namib Naukluft National Park of some 34,000 square kilometres, founded in 1907, which was to be our home for the next five days. Right from the outset it was clear that we were extremely fortunate to experience the Namib desert in an exceptional year with waist high grass waving like corn fields from horizon to horizon. After having been given the code of conduct by Simon, including that everything (including toilet paper) that is brought into the Park is taken out of the park, the route took us over the undulating terrain, past odd groups of Gemsbuck, away from the Saagberge to Homeb next to the Kuiseb Canyon – Topnaar country. The 150 km travelled was in typical red Kalahari sand tracks. Here we camped – to be spoilt with a supper prepared by the crew.

The day two terrain was a bit more demanding on both vehicles and drivers. Needles to say that it was also the start of the Brand competition. Some doing better than others and some doing…. well not better. Gradually the pecking order was established with some people becoming more arrogant and other more humble. Now drivers also started knowing their vehicles better and tackled the obstacles with more confidence. All along the way, Simon would intermittently share his knowledge about the desert, its geology, fauna and the history of the area with us over the radios. The absolute indescribable beauty of the area, vastness of the landscape and the challenges of the undulating dunes made for a irresistible smiles around the camp fire. BUT the best was yet to come.

Going west in the direction of the coast was the direction for day three. We were now into proper dunes, with the route dictated by same. It now really put vehicle and driver to the test. The results ranged from smiles on the faces of those on top of the dunes to less optimistic smiles from those who got there via the “escape” route. The confidence of some people had now reached levels which made them giggle uncontrollably at the sight of any of the huge rollercoaster dunes. Little did they know that, for them the best was yet to come. Again the enormity of the panoramic views cannot be described let alone be captured in a photograph. Absolutely beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. We camped at Olifantsbad where we were to stay for two days in the company of numerous very tame gerbilles (mice). Vehicles were now unpacked to make it as light as possible for the challenges which was to come the next day.

The first very dune for day four on our way to Conception Bay and ConceptionWater was already quite something. We stopped at the wreck of the Edward Bolin and found many black backed jackals along the coast. Then back inland and now the game was really on, dune higher and so the speed. At one huge rollercoaster dune, downhill speeds exceeding 100 km per hour was reached in order to conquer the climb to the top on the other side. Johnny’s voice on the radio now urged the drivers on with: “Jy moet hom TRAP Pappie ……. Gooi, gooi, gooi!!!” Men became boys again!

Back at Olifantsbad the crew entertained us with the most wonderful supper of superb steak and side dishes. Amazing.



On the final day, we travelled to one of the earlier mining towns (now almost totally deteriorated) where water had to be pumped eighty kilometres to supply the town! From there the route followed the coast where we stopped to enjoy the beauty of Sandwhich Harbour. Then inland again for a bit more fun and games. The grand finale brought even bigger smiles to the faces of the “teenagers” with the big petrol engine driven vehicles screaming down an almost endless dune in order to conquer the steep incline facing them. PW in his 4.5 litre Landcruiser bakkie nearly overshot the dune on the return run and made the most spectacular “4x4 brake crash landing”. Even the very experienced Simon and Johnny could not contain their smiles when they were offered Bastiaan’s FJ Cruiser. No wonder, they clocked 137 mks per hour at the bottom!



Then back along the coast to Walfish Bay for a farewell dinner and sad faces because it has come to an end. This trip is and will remain an absolutely unmatchable experience, not only because of the exhilarating dune rides, but indescribable the vastness and beauty of the Namib!