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| Khutsi Gate |
“Do not spoil a good story with facts” – the saying goes. This is often true of some individuals in the 4X4 community. I have had several personal experiences where it is obvious that there was a freedom to exaggerate. Having, over the years, been to virtually every other game reserve in Botswana from the South to the North, a visit to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) was a long time coming. The plan was to visit the reserve with two vehicles (my and Johan Zwieger’s) in March 2013. The plan almost did not materialise when circumstance reduced the number of vehicles to one, and respondents on the internet considered such an adventure silly – “If something happens to you or your vehicle it is tickets!” Even so Johan and I did the silly thing after all.
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| CKGR SUNSET |
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| Bateleur Adult & Young |
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| Johan Zwiegers |
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| Khama Rhino Sanctuary |
Our route would take us from Port Elizabeth, first to Khutsi Game Reserve and thereafter to the CKGR. On entry to Khutsi it was clear that the area was very dry. Our typical and lovely Botswana camp site (Mahurushele) was under a large Camel thorn tree. Over the next two days we travelled all the roads in the reserve. It being so dry and very hot, game (mostly springbuck, Gemsbok and Blue Wildebeest) was scarce and we accepted that they have migrated north (?). Even so, there were surprises. We saw a huge Black Mamba (a first for me) which (fortunately) sped away with its head raised and several raptors including a whole family of Bateleur Eagles at the Khutsi waterhole. While we heard a lion roar through the night we did not see any. In order not to chance fate, our route from Khutsi was to Khama Rhino Sanctuary as an overnight stop. As always, Khama Rhino Sanctuary remains to be an impressive little game park with equally good camping facilities. Then via Rakops where we entered the CKGR through the Matswere Gate.
We were full of expectation to meet with large numbers of (migrated) game followed by the handsome Kalahari Lions. Over the following six days, we camped at Sundays Pan, Passarge Pan, Litiahua and Kori Pans. Again it was clear that it was extremely dry. (We were informed later that the last proper rain fell in January). Sundays Pan was totally deserted but we found considerable numbers of Springbuck, Gemsbok and Blue Wildebeest on the noticeably greener Leopard Pan, approximately 10 kms to the North and a very placid lioness at the Sundays Pan waterhole. She allowed a very courageous warthog, who must have had loads of confidence in his accelerating abilities, to have a drink of water ten meters from where she was residing for the afternoon. During the afternoon, localised thunderstorm showers fell towards Deception Pan with several pools in the road (and treacherous very slippery mud) during our (unsuccessful) search of lions in that area the following day.
After two nights at Sundays Pan we drove down the Passarge valley and camped at Passarge Campsite 2. Again, temperatures exceeded 45 ºC. As we sat in the shade gathering momentum to pitch camp, a vehicle, driven by an attractive young French lady approached us to enquire whether we were OK. Over our time in CKGR we met with several people (including French, English, Australian, two German ladies) travelling on their own and some exiting the park through the Xade gate – a 68 km drive and a further 180 km of deep sand to Ghanzi! Although we might have been developing a wrong perception, we got the impression that it is highly unlikely that someone will not come along within 24 hrs should you have problems. So if you have enough water and fuel, for say three days and stay with your vehicle, the risks are limited. Admittedly, we were there in the dry season which makes travelling and getting stuck less of a risk.
While the Passarge Valley impressed us, again, with the exception of entertainment from a badger, game was limited. In fact, it was so devoid of life that we decided not to stay another night but to move to Letiahau with its famous lions. So we drove there via the Passarge waterhole. Although we found a (well hidden) lion at the (dry Letiahau) water hole, being keen photographers, our photo’s taken around Letiahau gives evidence of having been forced to concentrate on birds, more badgers and (fortunately) a some 400 strong energetic herd of springbuck performing in the cool of the early morning. It was now our plan to drive to Piper pan in search of adventure, but soon we met with the (despondent) French couple who were just returning from Piper pan with the news that there was absolutely no game. As a last effort we decided to return to the Sundays pan area where, at least, we saw life. At the Sundays pan waterhole we were informed that all campsites in the area was taken but were offered a campsite at Kori Campground. Since it was already late, we drove to Kori where we camped at a very tidy campsite for our last (and peaceful night) in the CKGR.
In conclusion, our experience can be summarised as follows:
• As with all off road safaris, sightings can not be guaranteed. In our case, having seen many lion tracks in the road, we might simply have been unlucky as a result of the coincidence of circumstances (drought).
• While I would not travel from the north to Khutsi in one vehicle and while there are risks of travelling in one vehicle only, our experience was that the risk is not as high as some people would like to make it sound and deter prospective tourists from visiting northern CKGR.
• I have always maintained that engaging 4X4 is probably only required in less than 1% of travels, but when it is required, it is more than 100% necessary. It is unlikely that you will get stuck in the dry season if you have some experience of sand driving. Having said that, I will always, even in the dry season take recovery gear. In the rainy season safety lies in numbers of vehicles.
• Water and fuel (petrol or diesel) are probably the most important items to carry. In our case (high temperatures) we managed (sparingly) with 2.5 liters per person per day, but 3 liters plus would be better.
• Finally, if it is the serenity of being in nature on your own you are looking for, CKGR is the place for you. Alternatively, it could be great fun for a group camping together. For us, who were in search of game and predators, the experience was disappointing. Hopefully, it will be better next time.
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| Sunday Pan Lioness |
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