ADDO UPDATE - MARCH 2010

Addo National Park has been extremely dry up to the middle of March 2010 with the effects of the drought clearly visable on both the bush as well as the grass plains. More recently, it had a few thunder storms with the latest one (Friday 26 March 2010) varying between 24 and 40 mm over the park. Although the park needs a lot more rain, these showers have already made a significant difference to the grass and now an increasing number of grazers (Kudu, zebra, hartebeest, buffalo) come out of the bush to graze the open grass areas, particularly in the late afternoon. Even so, the response of various tourists range from "have seen everything" (including lion) to "not much".

I include a few pictures of what we saw over the weekend of 26 to 28 March including the biggest rock monitor I have ever seen.

A bit of advice for people traveling to the park from Port Elizabeth, is that entering the park from the Colchester end at the Mathyolweni gate (37 km from Port Elizabeth) takes you through a scenic route and through the Addo park to the Main Gate (38 km) in stead of the "normal" rather unpleasant drive from Port Elizabeth to the Main Gate. Just a word of warning. Make sure that, should you enter through the Mathyolweni gate, you allow yourself adequate time (at 40 km/h) to reach the game camp exit gate at Main Camp before closing time (18h00 in winter and 18h30 in summer.

BONTEBOK PARK - SWELLENDAM - 2010

While lecturing at the University of Stellenbosch some (long) time ago, I was involved in a research project in the park. Thereafter I have probably last visited the park some 10 years ago. For theat very reason I decided to go there to see what has happened in my absence. Whereas little has changed as far as the game and beauty of the park is concerned, the most significant and very positive change is in the accommodation. So much so that if you simply want to get away from the rush and enjoy tranquility and nature, this is the place for you. The Lang Elsie’s kraal camp site and chalets in the Bontebok National Park is a beautiful setting and with chalets overlooking the Breede river, it makes for more peaceful relaxing on the veranda of your chalet.

Whereas it is the smallest national park in the country, it prides itself on having reastablished the Bontebok in South Africa from a mere 17 to over 3000 (not all in the park). With only plains game (Bontebok, Hartebeest, Grey Ribbok, Cape Mountain Zebra) and a wide variety of bird life, it naturally follows that you can not expect the exitement of a predator to charging across the plains. Even so, as I have said in the introduction, if it is peacefull charm that you want, or a few days away with your loved ones, this is the place to be.

Because of its location, close to the beautiful and historic town of Swellendam, it can also serve as a base from where to visit the wine route (Robertson (78 km from the park), and with Robertson, Montague, and Ashton all within less than 30km apart) or visit the hot springs in Montague. This drive, particularly to Montague is very scenic as is the town.

BOTSWANA

*Take note this is a short summary of this trip. For those who want more information, the full diary is available in the website under ........... In addition, for advice feel free to call or e-mail me.

Botswana is an adventure and with that an unpredictable adventure. Not only in its very rich wildlife but also as regards its environmental and traveling conditions. In winters it is dry and roads very sandy. In summer (rainy season, the “roads” can change overnight. The beauty of it all is that, for the adventurous Botswana’s safari areas it are not spoilt with modern roads and in their game park camps, you are part of the wild in contrast to being fenced out of the wild.

On this visit we traveled via Ganzi to Ngepi which is situated on the Kavango River in the western entrance to the Kaprivi strip. After two days of camping here, the Botswana adventure began.

Traveling conditions in the game areas of Botswana were trying with almost as much road submerged as not. Often these pools appear so innocent on the surface, but never trust the surface. It is therefore always a surprize for the leading vehicle. Either a pleasant one but often a shock. Even so is exciting. As with Africa in general, just about everything is possible with common sense, simple tools (a spade) and patience.

With conditions as they are in Zimbabwe at the moment, we prefer to use Kasane as a base from which to visit the Victoria falls and to stock up. From there we went to the Ilaha camp site in Chobe (three days). Several “advisors” warned us of going the wrong time. Heat, water and poor game viewing. O.K. I will give them a few points for heat (particularly when your Landrover’s Air Conditioner hands upped in the heat of Ganzi). As for the rest, we saw (“experienced”?) hundreds of elephants, including a herd which came grazing peacefully right through our camp. Buffalo, zebra, Giraffe and more.

The road to Savuti is an experience on its own being very sandy, but not a serious risk. In my various visits to Savuti, I must have been unlucky, since several people (including the very good travel book “Travel and Field guide of Botswana” by Veronica Roodt) describes it as having a high game population. Again, we did not see that much.

From Savuti to Moremi we knew that we were in for a real adventure since we have had news of people being air lifted out of the area and other people being stuck in mud pools for days. However, when we started meeting mud covered 4x4’s coming from the Moremi area, we were more courageous, even though their “stories” ranged from scary to comforting. BUT, remember common sense and patience. Did we need those? Yes! Common sence = Do not trust the innocent surface. Walk through pools before you drive through it. Did we get stuck? Yes! Patience = Spade work, more than one vehicle and a snatch strap! Was it the wrong time? No, not as far as we were concerned. It was real adventure.

Having spun and slided our way to North Gate, we were informed that the direct road via Xakanaxa was under water so that we had to drive a long detour via South Gate. Did is say drive. No. More slipping and sliding.

From South Gate to Third bridge we were entertained by wild dogs, cheetah, lechwe, buffalo, hippopotamus and the largest herd of elephant that I have ever seen. Admiring the latter was however cut short when a bull elephant in must charged us. We just won the race.

At third bridge we were definitely intruders a camp site which was the territory of a troop of baboons. I was the second time in Botswana that baboons made such a nuisance of themselves that we left the camp a day early. While there, we had the priveledge of being warned by the resident baboons of a leopard with baboon on his menue stopping his mission five meters from our camp.

On our way to South Gate we saw the most beautiful tiger right next to the road with its kill hung in the tree just above him. Fantastic. Then again, hundreds of elephants and to round it off, a visit to our camp site of a number of hyenas drooling for our supper.

From Moremi, we traveled to Maun to stock up and then via Baines Baobabas on to Nxai pan. A very good camp and as with Chobe, Savuti and Moremi, new ablusion facilities. The pan is virtually covered in springbok, zebra, many birds and sevral scavegers. Being flat game spotting is easy.

Next stop, Kgama Rhino Sanctuary just north of Serowe is real little gem well stocked with rhino and a wide variety of plains game. A good place to visit or stay over.

Then the long run home via Kimberley.

ADDO, I DO, I DO, I DO, I DO.

Over the past five years Addo has become one of our favourate destinations. Partly because of its proximity to Port Elizabeth (70 kms), but more so because of the potential numbers of game that you see on a game drive and experiences brought by patience. We find its accommodation adequate and its camping facilities excellent, particularly if you manage to find a site under the huge Ficus trees.

Addo is about elephants and probably the most “user” friendly elephants in Africa. However, Addo is also subject to seasonal droughts, which has a devastating effect on the grass plains. It follows that whereas large herds of elephant, buffalo and other plains game would graze these plains following re-growth after good rains, they almost totally move into the bush for food and will visit the watering points for water and cooling themselves down, during the day. It remains amazing that such a large population of such large animals can dissappear totally as if non existant. At the time of writing, Addo was in the grips of a devastating drought. During the morning game drive, Addo was “empty”. Only a few Hartebeest, wart hog and ostriches to be seen. I must however add that the midday temperature was into the forties. On the return trip past the waterholes (Hapoor, Rooidam and Gwarrie pan) they were there in hundreds enjoyng the water whilst the “teenagers” typically frolicked in the pools.

Addo has a amazing variety of game including the big five land animals (Elephant, Rhinocerous, Buffalo, Lion and Leopard). In addition it accommodates a variety of planes game (Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Eland, etc) of which Kudu is abundant in the park, particularly in the later afternoons after the heat of the day. Scavenger/hunters (Spotted Hyena, Caracal and Black backed Jackal) completes the circle with the support of surricates, mongoose vervet monkeys and a variety of birds.

The road network is excellent and the park is rarely overcrowded.

I mentioned patience and experiences. On a previous visit to Rooidam late afternoon, we saw two lions (See the pictures). A mature female and a young female having a rest at the dam. They appeared to be resting as game coming down to have a drink at the opposite side of the dam appeared not to interest them ...... untill a kudu bull ventured to close for comfort. The chase was on, but fortunately for the Kudu who knew an escape route through the bush managed to shake the lion off.

Addo is definitely something special and with the development plans under way, greater Addo will become even much more in years to come. I maintain that under good conditions you will see a very large variety of game during a late afternoon game drive through the park.

AROUND SOUTH AFRICA

Since Kingsley Holgate was on his outer edge safari around the African continent, we decided to circumvent South Africa and to stay in Game Parks as we go.
The route took us from Port Elizabeth, along the South Eastern coast to Oribi Gorge (20 Km from Port Shepstone, then to St Lucia (Northern KZN) and over Swaziland to Kruger National Park. Then along the Northern border to Mapungubwe National Park (East of Musina on the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana, down the North Western border to Botsalano (near Zeerust) and further to the Northern Cape – Molopo Game

Reserve. We then turned South West to Augrabies National Park, down the west coast to Cape Town where after we follow the Southern coast to Storms River National Park before heading back to where we started.
I maintain that while there is a reason for having destinations, the travel to get there is the greater part of the adventure, and travelling through the former Transkei is just that. Oribi gorge and the surrounds are breathtakingly beautiful and invites hiking shoes and spending some time and energy there. The nearby Leopard Rock (see photo) is a must see.

The whole KZN region is so lush and beautiful. It is however the northern regions of this province which fascinates us. The St Lucia Estuary is something special and with the Imfolozi / Hluhluwe game Parks near by, it makes it an area where time could be well spent.

Although Swaziland justifies a full scale visit, we simply travelled through it as a short cut to Nelspruit and Kruger National Park. I have been to the Kruger Park numerous times and it will remain to be one of my favourite parks (See also our prioritised list of game parks visited below). It was extremely dry at the time of our visit, but even so, it remains a wonderful place. We entered the park at Krokodil brug in the south and after staying at Lower Sabie and Letaba, we left it at the Pafuri Gate in the north. The route east of Pafuri remains depressing as a result of the poverty of people staying around the borders of the Park. And the north is nothing different.

Our route took us through the beautiful Tsipise region, through Musina and on to Mapungubwe. Mapungubwe is known for its heritage which is linked with the Zimbabwe ruins and earlier peoples who inhabited the area. The park which borders on Zimbabwe and Botswana, although we did not see too much game, is really something special as regards its beauty and the accommodation very well planned. A visit to the archaeological heritage site is worth while.

Our drive south was planned to use the small game park, Botsalano, near Zeerust as a stop over. We were surprised with the numbers of game including Rhino which we saw, but was disappointed with the upkeep and cleanliness of the facilities. It could be a special little gem if the standards are raised.

From Mafekeng we drove west along the Molopo River which is also the boundary with Botswana. Whereas the first 100 km of the road was good, it turned into a denture grinding vehicle testing nightmare. It was a great relief to eventually reach the Molopo Game Reserve. For us, the Molopo game reserve was again used as a stop over where we did not spend enough time to really judge it. It is typical Kalahari. Whereas the camp site contained all the basics, we did not see much game, other than Gemsbok, on the game drive we did late afternoon and driving right through the park the next day. Then south west to Augrabies. Again, the road over McCarthy’s Rest, Hotazel and Kuruman was something you just had to sit out and wish to reach civilisation.

We have been to Augrabies several times in the past. This was again just an overnight stop. For first time visitors, a visit to Augrabies, it should be considered as more than just a stop over. With all the potential add ons (canoeing, absaling game viewing) in the region, Augrabies is an adventure! In addition, the camp offers a lot and both the camp sites and chalets are good.

The next long drive took us to Stormsriver, which is obviously much different to the other parks visited, but absolutely wonderful with the beautiful coast line, hiking trails and excellent camping and accommodation. It also offers some canoeing and with a bit of luck, you may be entertained by dolphins playing in the surf right in front of your camp site.

Where to?

Although requirements and demands of tourists differ as regards what is considered as the right cup of tea for them, we have, during this trip attempted to prioritise the 30 game/National parks which we have visited and our experiences there over the past decade. Take note that since we like camping and a bit of adventure your list may vary from ours. Even so, this is what we like:

Kruger National Park (Mpumalanga)
Moremi (Botswana)
Chobe (Botsawana)
Ngorongoro (Tanzania)
Serengeti (Tanzania)
Etosha (Namibia)
Savuti (Botswana)
Addo (Eastern Cape)
Kalaghadi National Park (Nothern Cape)
Amboselli (Kenya)
Ruaha (Tanzania)
Pilanesberg
Nxai pan (Botswana)
Kgama Rhino Sanctuary (Botswana)
Hluhluwe/Mofolozi (KZN)
Wangie (Zimbabwe)
Stormsriver National Park (Eastern Cape)
Mapungubwe National Park (Northern Province)
Victoria Falls Park (Zimbabwe)
Matoppos National Park (Zimbabwe)
Sossus Vlei (Namibia)
Richtersveld (Northern Cape)
Cradock Mountain Zebra Park (Eastern Cape)
Botsalano Park (North Western Province)
Karoo National Park (Western Cape)
Swellendam Bontebok Park
St Lucia Estuary
Augrabies National Park (Northern Cape)
Cape Point National Park (Western Cape)
Molopo Game Park (North Western Province)
Parque de Bahine de Mozambique

Tossie’s Birthday Adventure

It was October (suicide month) 1973, while living in the former Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) that I took my family to Lake Kariba for a weekend. Amongst other things (Tiger fishing, swimming, hiking etc) we were advised to go for a drive along the debushed area under the power lines which supplied torbo generated electricity to Salisbury (Harare). We were told that in the late afternoons, various wild animals would cross this open stretch on their way to the water. So I loaded the whole family (Tossie, Alitha and Pinnie 3 and 2 years respectively) into my car and off we went. We saw some antelope and continued slowly when I heard sounds coming from the edge of the bush. We stopped just when a herd of elephants emerged from the bush. On seeing us, they hesitated and the started grazing on the side of the bush. Every now and then they would stop and look at us, sitting ever so peacefully in the car. I think that this pattern of eating and looking was a way of getting frustrated enough with this obstacle in their way, because, suddenly and without warning they charged us. Now, I have heard of and experienced several mock charges, but this one had undoubtedly lost its “mock”. The elephants charged us to the point where they touched my vehicle and under such circumstances they appear to grow to double their normal size. They then circled the vehicle before moving off. Only then did we start showing signs of life again. After a few moments Tossie remarked that it was her closest encounter with the wild and expressed her wish never to come closer to that ever again. Agreed! Little did we know……..

During August this year (2009) we decided to celebrate Tossies birthday by inviting six friends for a drive through the really enjoyable Kragga Kamma game park virtually bordering on to Port Elizabeth. This relatively small game park accommodates a large variety of game including, apart from smaller game, Blue wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, waterbuck, nyala, springbuck, rhinoceros and warthog. In addition a special camp has a number of cheetah, while there is another small camp at the restaurant where it is possible to interact with “tame” cheetah. Truly remarkable.

On our drive through the park, we saw every possible inhabitant, including three beautiful cheetah. The beauty is that you see all these beautiful animals at very close range. Disappointment was regularly expressed with my poor guiding since we had seen no rhino yet. Then we went to have Tossie’s birthday lunch at the restaurant. Having done that, the day was complete but for the absence of rhino. After the lovely lunch we took the final loop before leaving the park. We first met with an absolutely majestic nyala ram. Impressive! Then I spotted the rhino right next to the road. As we approached, the bull moved to the right side of the road behind a tree while the cow and her calf (almost adult size) continued grazing on the left side. As we got to the tree, the bull rhino suddenly appeared and charged us. It came right up to and touching my door, right at my open window. Not nice! I do not know whether it was something that I might have said, something in my breath, the colour of the Landrover or what ever might have upset him. I was not going to ask either. By now, you could hear a pin drop in the Landrover. No more wine supercharged chirps and comments. The rhino kept on staring at us and on discovering that there were no more empty seats in the Landrover, it slowly moved to the front of the Landrover where it hooked its horn under the bumper and started rocking the Landrover and its contents. By now all breathing in the Landrover had also stopped completely except for my brother in law who kept on, hysterically advising me of the rhino’s presence. Then followed some advice: “Look what the rhino is doing, look what the rhino is doing. Blow your horn, blow your horn”. His hysterics was also rocked to quiescence with a sharp heave by the beast. We were all just about running out of oxygen when the rhino released its grip and slowly moved to approximately three meters from the Landrover. I thought to move off as well .........but with speed. That is as much speed as a Landrover Tdi would allow. The rhino appeared to be upset with us leaving him and had a second charge at us. Fortunately the surprise factor saved us and we, only just won the race with the rhino barely missing the opportunity to leave a trade mark on the back of the Landrover. Breathing resumed and gradually the passengers discovered their voices again trying to pretend that it was an interesting adventure. From the atmosphere in the cabin, I thought that it was a bit more than simply interesting.

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