Morocco - Africa the Other Side

“Morocco is known to the ancient Arabs as al-Maghreb al-Aqsa, the Farthest Land of the Setting Sun, alluding to its position on the Western extremity of North Africa. Ancient mariners, medieval conquerors and modern colonisers long sought to tame this land on the edge. But its rugged terrain and robust tribes endured. It has absorbed the influences of Europe, Africa and Arabia, but Morocco remains unique.” – Lonely Planet. In fact, if you want to see how people lived in the early years you can visit Morocco today. Well we did. My daughter, Pinnie Hearn, planned the whole trip and I simply jumped in.


Pinnie with view over Fes



Alley way in Fes



Pinnie and Berber Women in her Cace House

 First impressions stick – for a while. Having landed at the Casa Blanca Airport, we took the train to Casa Blanca from where we had to get a connecting train to Fes. We were impressed by the punctuality of this train and the comfort of it being rather empty. We however had another think coming. It was a Friday afternoon peak hour and our next train was the main line transporting people for the weekend from all stations between Marrakesh in the South to Fes in the north. So, not only was the train approximately one hour late, but it was packed to well over capacity. Considering the fact that we both carried two fairly heavy suitcases complicated matters somewhat more. If I say capacity it means that corridors and the entrance landing of each coach was so full that the doors could only be closed after a fair bit of additional squashing – and at each following station, more passengers would join the squash. After about ten stations we were gradually squashed down the corridor and finally squashed our weary bodies into seats for the final 2 hours of our theoretical three hour, becoming a four and a half hour trip. Having any meaningful discussion was not easy. If you are Caucasian you are immediately accepted as being French and addressed as such and Arabic was way beyond our understanding. We reached Fes safely.

Our introduction to the city of Fes and its people was the start of our further education. There appeared to be no street system and nothing has a fixed price. Not the taxi, food, accommodation, asking direction or – no nothing.

Transport

Having been woken up by the pre 05h00 prayer call, our next two days were to be within the maze of streets and alley ways of the Fes medina, lined with souqs (shops) selling shoes, carpets, clothes, food, meat, spices, antiques and just about anything small enough to stock. With these streets too narrow for any engine driven transport, everything (this includes building materials, hides and skins, vegetables, meat, etc) is either brought in either by human power or mostly by donkeys and mules with which you share the “streets”. Several buildings accommodate a variety of artisan’s producing brass lamps, shoes and other leather products, furniture, jellabas and western clothes. Beware of showing interest in any goods or even just making eye contact with the shopkeeper and you will be lured into a shop, be offered sweet mint tea and have a battle to get away without leaving some of your funds there. Everything has a price, but after negotiation it turns out to be totally different to the one originally quoted. In all cases, after cold blooded bargaining, we ended up paying anything between 50 and 25 percent of the input price which is often only established when you seriously decide that you have lost interest in the product because of the price and get up to leave the shop. Even when you ask directions (and take note that you will get lost in the maze of streets), a self appointed “guide” will direct you and demand money. Over our twelve day stay this really got to us so much so that we were keen to avoid making contact with anybody simply because of the “in your face” haggling for everything.

We visited most of the tourist attractions including several mosques, the well known tannery, spice market and just wandered in awe of something so different to what we are used to. At the tannery we were advised to put on a gas mask (rolled up fresh mint leaves stuck up each nostril – not to elegant but effective). We later made friends with a shopkeeper who also had a “factory” where brass lamps and wooden furniture and doors are made. Several buildings in the old town were Inns during the time when products such as salt, spices and other goods were transported to Fes by camels and donkeys. The ground floor accommodated the stables while the travellers stayed on the upper level. Several of these old buildings are now used for different purposes and the word “factory” got new meaning when I saw that these artisans often sat (and in some cases sleep) in a small (2m x 3m what used to be a bedroom) to produce his products day after day.

Butchery and Transport

On the second day we decided to do the self guided tour of Fes and got well and truly lost so that we had to “buy” our directions at some cost from another unofficial guide. Later the afternoon we climbed a hill just outside of the city gates past a Berber cemetery and up to some old ruins from where we took photos of the city. On our way back (and lost again) we met a Canadian girl (Claire Vivier) who directed us to a restaurant where we had yet another tagine for supper. During our time together she said that she was very much interested in our planned tour and decided to join us two days later. She was a real blessing!

Our next stop would be Bhalil, a little town some 30 kms from Fes. What an interesting place full of old world tradition with some people still living in “houses” carved into the rocks, ladies sitting in groups all over town crocheting buttons for jellaba’s and some doing there washing with the communal washing stream of water that runs through town. Pinnie joined in the washing to their great delight. We also made a brief visit to the small Berber town of Sefrou (also known for its cherry festival) and its manageable smaller medina where a large Jewish community had settled (the Mellah) many years ago, in distinctive wooden-galleried houses. A big flood through the middle of town resulted in the majority of the Jews were wiped out while the rest fled for Israel in the sixties following the six day war. Here we also artisans making anything from wooden ploughs to weaving braids for jellabahs – all by hand.

Berber Toareg Tent

Then on to our next adventure – Merzouga and the Sahara Desert. Our tour guide and driver (Abdul and Aziz) collected us in Bhalil and we drove the approximately 350 km south towards Merzouga over the Middle Atlas mountains, past pine forests, lakes and areas where we had our first sights of Berber Toaregs and their lifestyle in barren unforgiving land making a living from the land and trading herbs harvested from the plants naturally occurring in the mountains. As our travels continued, it struck me how similar (traditional) these lifestyles appeared to be with those of Bedouins seen in the Middle East, Israel and the Ankara area of Turkey. Following Middelt we drove towards Erfoud where we passed a huge oasis (Ziz Palmeraies) with palm trees and gardens stretching for over 15 kilometres. Even approaching the desert, we passed through areas where water is distributed by canals to irrigate large cultivated areas.

Into the Sahara

Late afternoon we departed on camels heading for the horizon of Erg Chebbi towards the Algerian Border! The dromedary was not one bit comfortable and to add insult to injury, my saddle was mounted at a slight angle. We rocked on while the sun was setting creating beautiful scenes of the dunes with the lengthening shadows – all slightly spoilt by a camel with a most unforgiving suspension. After crossing an endless number of dunes we finally reached a dune from which we looked down on our “Toareg” camp for the night. The dromedaries were made to lie down (with a groan) and we walked to our accommodation. The Berbers served us supper followed by music and dances which eventually developed into a compulsory dance for all – actually very amusing. Up early the next morning to see the sun rise over the Sahara Desert. Beautiful! Then the return trip with a better positioned saddle – much, much better, but I was still far from putting a dromedary on my wish list.

Todra Gorge

Next destination was Oarzazate via Tenerhir, passing many old Kasbahs, stunning palmeraies and Berber villages to the impressive Todra Gorge. This massive fault in the plateau, dividing the Atlas Mountains from the Jebel Sarhro rises 300 m straight up at its narrowest point. From Oarsasate, travelling west, despite it being barren agriculture is practised mostly by Toareg livestock farmers whereas the valleys are planted with olives, date palms, fruit trees, nuts and lucerne. Just before reaching the well maintained huge Kasbah (family fortress) of Ait Benhaddou (Ait meaning “Family of”); we stopped at an old man who was sitting in the shade of his house with his pet snake in his hand. He entertained us by draping the snake around our necks and heads thoroughly enjoying each moment. It appeared as if the snake also (fortunately) enjoyed the game. We toured the Kasbah under the guidance of our driver Aziz enjoying the history of how they lived in these fortresses in days gone by. Ait Benhaddou was also used in many films of which the most recent one was Gladiator. It remains wonderful to see what can be achieved with mud bricks!

Then over the never ending winding, blind curves, mother of all passes crossing the High Atlas Mountains. While it was very hot in the valleys, it was freezing at the top of the pass. On the other side of the mountain we stopped at a little shop where the “miracle working” Argon Oil (used by Berbers for centuries to heal scars, relieve rheumatic pain and as an anti wrinkle cream) is extracted from Argon seeds for which this area is well known. We were spontaneously offered the usual mint tea and a tajine of couscous (traditional for Fridays). Then on to the much publicized Marrakesh with its world renowned Djemaa el-Fna (Market). For me Marrakesh was a disappointing (if not irritating) experience. The narrow streets and alleyways of the medina with many more tourists and now also motorcycles and bicycles in the already crowded narrow streets and the even more bold shopkeepers did not impress. Even so, Marrakesh contained a number of “must sees”.

Ait Benhaddou

At the Djemaa el-Fna, snake charmers is a must see. In fact, you cannot miss them and should you glance in that direction you would be approached to again part with some money. Having learnt our lessons we negotiated a deal to take some photos, but at the end of our cession we had to face the whole team of snake charmers and the deal increased five fold. Having now been much the wiser as to the ways of the people, we simply paid our agreed amount, turned our backs and walked away. Pinnie decided that she may not leave Marrakesh without having experienced a massage and a hammam (traditional scrub removing the top cutaneous layer of the skin). We also visited the gardens developed by Yves St Laurent as a gift to Marrakesh and the impressive private photo collection of La Maison de la Photography before returning to the Djemaa el-Fna for a last supper. By now our stomachs were protesting audibly about the Moroccan treatment.

The bus trip to Essaouira past huge olive plantations along the way was very comfortable. Essaouira is a coastal town with impressive ramparts along the sea, a port with many fishing boats and a much more user friendly and laid back lifestyle. We walked through the town enjoying the “freedom” of not being forced into decisions all the time and enjoyed their restaurants. The only compulsory tour was the forced (by Pinnie), high speed march to the ramparts to take photos of an impressive sundown.

Before leaving Morocco, we just had to do a hike into the high Atlas Mountains and duly arranged for a taxi to drive us from Marrakesh to Imlil via Asni. The route was interesting and we reached a vantage point from where we had a good view of Jebel Toubkal. We hiked further up the mountain past Berber settlements to an impressive waterfall. On our way down we passed hikers on their way up and some doing it the easy way – on mules.

Public transport, both buses and trains in Morocco, is well organised and comfortable. By now we were pretty home sick and ready to go home, but Casa Blanca had one must see in the form of the Hassan 11 Mosque built to commemorate the former king’s 60th birth-day in 1993. It employed over 6000 Moroccan artisans and cost more than half a billion dollars. It is big enough to cover the St Peters Cathedral. By now being averse to haggling even for taxi fares, we decided to walk the five kilometres to the mosque and I depended on the proven ability of my GPS/cum guide, Pinnie for directions. The Mosque was all it was said to be. Massive and most impressive, perched and actually partly suspended over the sea.

In summary, the constant haggling and attempts to, in some way or another, squeeze some money out of you that really got to us to such an extent that we will think twice before travelling to Morocco again. On the other hand, Morocco, its ancient history and rich heritage was a more than interesting. Our travels through the country side, learning more about the country and its peoples, were most enjoyable and we have met and made friends with several wonderful people of which we will certainly have fond memories.  

 

Faces of the Namib

“Are you enjoying to be a teenager again?” That is the feeling that progressively develop as you cross the Namib Desert from East to West. This tour, which was organised by Ian Rust of Safari Centre, Port Elizabeth in conjunction with Imbizo Safari’s and which is run by Uri Adventures of Namibia, starts at Solitaire and ends in Walfish Bay. So on 6 May a mixed bag of 21 people in an equally collection of 4x4’s met at Solitaire Guest Farm where the 5 day adventure started. Our guide Simon, was assisted by Johnny and Patric. What fun it was to be part of a positive and happy group of people led by an able team who turned an adventure into loads of fun and yet leaving us at the end of the tour with a lot of knowledge of and respect for the Namib Desert. However, this is not an adventure that can be captured since the vastness of the expanse, the beauty of the desert, the emotions of the participants and the adrenalin boosted exhilaration is simply lost in the flatness of the paper and limitations of the ink. I have been told so beforehand and now I also know that it must be experienced!

The morning of 7 May each vehicle was fitted with a radio and after a radio check the train of 4x4’s lined up and entered the Namib Naukluft National Park of some 34,000 square kilometres, founded in 1907, which was to be our home for the next five days. Right from the outset it was clear that we were extremely fortunate to experience the Namib desert in an exceptional year with waist high grass waving like corn fields from horizon to horizon. After having been given the code of conduct by Simon, including that everything (including toilet paper) that is brought into the Park is taken out of the park, the route took us over the undulating terrain, past odd groups of Gemsbuck, away from the Saagberge to Homeb next to the Kuiseb Canyon – Topnaar country. The 150 km travelled was in typical red Kalahari sand tracks. Here we camped – to be spoilt with a supper prepared by the crew.

The day two terrain was a bit more demanding on both vehicles and drivers. Needles to say that it was also the start of the Brand competition. Some doing better than others and some doing…. well not better. Gradually the pecking order was established with some people becoming more arrogant and other more humble. Now drivers also started knowing their vehicles better and tackled the obstacles with more confidence. All along the way, Simon would intermittently share his knowledge about the desert, its geology, fauna and the history of the area with us over the radios. The absolute indescribable beauty of the area, vastness of the landscape and the challenges of the undulating dunes made for a irresistible smiles around the camp fire. BUT the best was yet to come.

Going west in the direction of the coast was the direction for day three. We were now into proper dunes, with the route dictated by same. It now really put vehicle and driver to the test. The results ranged from smiles on the faces of those on top of the dunes to less optimistic smiles from those who got there via the “escape” route. The confidence of some people had now reached levels which made them giggle uncontrollably at the sight of any of the huge rollercoaster dunes. Little did they know that, for them the best was yet to come. Again the enormity of the panoramic views cannot be described let alone be captured in a photograph. Absolutely beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. We camped at Olifantsbad where we were to stay for two days in the company of numerous very tame gerbilles (mice). Vehicles were now unpacked to make it as light as possible for the challenges which was to come the next day.

The first very dune for day four on our way to Conception Bay and ConceptionWater was already quite something. We stopped at the wreck of the Edward Bolin and found many black backed jackals along the coast. Then back inland and now the game was really on, dune higher and so the speed. At one huge rollercoaster dune, downhill speeds exceeding 100 km per hour was reached in order to conquer the climb to the top on the other side. Johnny’s voice on the radio now urged the drivers on with: “Jy moet hom TRAP Pappie ……. Gooi, gooi, gooi!!!” Men became boys again!

Back at Olifantsbad the crew entertained us with the most wonderful supper of superb steak and side dishes. Amazing.



On the final day, we travelled to one of the earlier mining towns (now almost totally deteriorated) where water had to be pumped eighty kilometres to supply the town! From there the route followed the coast where we stopped to enjoy the beauty of Sandwhich Harbour. Then inland again for a bit more fun and games. The grand finale brought even bigger smiles to the faces of the “teenagers” with the big petrol engine driven vehicles screaming down an almost endless dune in order to conquer the steep incline facing them. PW in his 4.5 litre Landcruiser bakkie nearly overshot the dune on the return run and made the most spectacular “4x4 brake crash landing”. Even the very experienced Simon and Johnny could not contain their smiles when they were offered Bastiaan’s FJ Cruiser. No wonder, they clocked 137 mks per hour at the bottom!



Then back along the coast to Walfish Bay for a farewell dinner and sad faces because it has come to an end. This trip is and will remain an absolutely unmatchable experience, not only because of the exhilarating dune rides, but indescribable the vastness and beauty of the Namib!

Soul of the Kalahari

The introductory information about the tour stated that: “The Kalahari Concession Area (which would be our home for the next five days) is highly restricted and a Bushman guide will be your only GPS, map, tracker and story teller…….. Beneath your wheels it is more or less the same low range terrain all the time – sand and thick sand to boot, that will make the fully loaded vehicles sweat. ……. Your car will pick up some scratches. ….. You are desperately far from civilisation, people don’t come into the area, there is no water and one moment you drive over Kalahari dunes and the next you’re on the savannas again. Should you manage to get a signal for help through, how will they ever find you in this wilderness?” Over the next five days we were to learn that this information was rather subtle, but let us get to the real story.

If getting away is what you want, then this is it, provided you get away with a group of positive people. The group of seven vehicles containing 17 people, drove from the Western Cape, Eastern Cape and Gauteng to meet at the Boereplaas camp site near Vryburg as an overnight stop. From here the route was via Bray on the Botswana border on to Cornwell Lodge where we camped. Here Mr Man, our tracker (GPS and map), joined and guided us along the sand track towards Mabuasehube from which we turned off to camp at Heinie’s Pan some 20 km north of the Khokotsa - Mabuasehube road on an overgrown jeep track. We all had seed covers over our radiators, but the one meter high grass necessitated regular stops to remove grass seeds from the radiators and particularly around the exhaust areas to prevent it igniting. This procedure continued for the next five days. We pitched camp on a spot overlooking the pan and had a lovely relaxed evening. Having now “thawed” and having become too comfortable with each other, over the following days, humour and chirps escalated exponentially to an unequalled level and was maintained throughout the rather trying trip – happiness in Africa proved to be the Kalahari mixed with this group.

Although we were warned that this is lion country, as is often the case, complacency sets in, particularly under the influence of the tranquillity of the area. So, the next morning, minutes after Johan returned from a casual stroll in the bush armed with toilet paper and a shovel, some lions passed the very spot where he had sat. Mr Man showed us the lion’s “camp”, where they rested for the night, which proved to be an uncomfortably 100 meters from our camp.

The second day saw us return to the sand track leading to Mabuasehube which we entered and drove past Monamodi, Mabuesehube, Lesholoago and Maputhathulwa Pans before returning to Heinie’s Pan. With the pans dry, game was limited and only a few springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest, blue wildebeest, vultures and jackal were sighted. From here we again drove into the concession area. Now, with no roads to follow, we were at the mercy of Mr Man, the tracker to direct us to various pans with several tight squeezes through the bush accompanied by many chirps, remarks and “advice” over the radios. We pitched camp, a little more aware of the fact that we were in fact intruders in the game and more importantly the lion’s domain. However, as the evening progressed “bravery” and sharp witted remarks again took over without any further thought given to this fact.

The Day Four route was a slow barely forty kilometres. The route not only necessitated tight squeezes through the bushes but now also occasionally required having to drive over the odd bush. We reached “camp” around lunch time and pitched camp to enjoy another beautiful Kalaghadi sunset. After supper the discussion point was whether the growing cloud cover predicted rain. By bed time, one of the more confident forecasters of rain, did not trust his own prediction and was hell bent on going to sleep on the pan. With threats from all sides he was eventually convinced not to go, so, to enjoy the Kalaghadi air, he pitched his tent without a fly sheet. By about one o’clock his forecast proved right. A rather confused rush around in total darkness and rain, in an attempt to cover the tent with a now missing fly sheet and with several onlookers chirping from their tents, followed. A bit later, lions, passing on the edge of the pan, just below our camp, roared continuously, accompanied by the sound of tent zips being closed with speed. Their tracks were followed the next day, but it veered of into the bush, which we were advised not too follow on foot!

Day five again was a drive further west through (and over) thick bush including driving along the edges of several pans. The pans were now pretty wet and treacherous so that the our route had to be skilfully selected by Hennie in his big Cruiser. He led us up a gentle incline to the edge of a huge dune overlooking the Kalahari plains stretching for many kilometres in all directions to the horizon. What a sight! We then returned to …………….. pan where we camped and amidst the sharp humour of the group, together with the Gemsbuck grazing on the pan enjoyed the tranquillity of the Kalaghadi sun set.

It rained all night so that our departure for the Kaa concession area was somewhat delayed. The Kaa area was absolutely stunning and was covered with lush meter high grass from horizon to horizon. No wonder that it accommodates two herds of springbuck estimated at six thousand each. While a previous group enjoyed this spectacle, they are not bound to the road and although we saw several smaller groups of springbuck, we may be more lucky next time!

Our route continued to Kang via Hukuntsi and back to the Cornwell Lodge for a much needed hot water shower and another entertaining evening with Mr Man giving us a repeat performance of his busman dance. All that remained was a good sleep and a long return trip to our homes, but this would certainly not be the end. Good friendships had been moulded with the fellow tourists and a permanent bond with the expanses of the Kalaghadi Concession area. There will certainly be a next time!

Zimbabwe, Chobe, Caprivi and Etosha

Despite the deterring publicity, Zimbabwe has been on our list of places to go to (again) for some time. I say “again” since we have lived in Zimbabwe temporarily from 1972 to 1974 and have driven through it during 1997 and again 1998, but have never really experienced it properly since the 70’s. So after debating our annual safari with Solms and Alitha, we settled on Matopos and Hwange (followed by Chobe, Bwabwata (Nambwe) in the Caprivi and Etosha) for this year with the intention of doing the north (Matusadonna and Mana Pools) next year.

We entered the country through the “Plumtree” border post and stayed at the Maleme Dam campsite in the beautiful Matobo National Park. Even though it is pretty clear that park does not enjoy a peak in its economy, (there were two more campers) the friendly service that we got from the young lady at the campsite proved that they still have hope and pride. From Matobo we drove to Hwange National Park via Bulawayo. Bulawayo still reflects signs of the former beauty of the colonial era, but the economic and political realities have obviously taken its toll. We soon met with the first of several police road blocks, of which we were well pre-warned by the media and the local people. Our vehicles were inspected for the required reflectors and questions asked, but as so many things in life, we were invariably treated with the respect that we showed for the police. No aggression and no bribes. A the last road block before leaving Zimbabwe, in response to my remark of the effect of the negative publicity on the country, the female police officer said “Yes as if we eat people”. Yet, poverty causes strange actions and we were warned by locals to be patient at road blocks and to avoid lay bye’s.

We entered Hwange at the Main Camp entrance and after registering, we continued to the Sinamatella campsite. We were welcomed by very friendly staff and the resident elephant, Kapula. We camped there for three days and enjoyed the beautiful setting of the camp. Again, although the roads network and the infrastructure shows clear signs of lack of upkeep, the staff does their utmost, with the little they have, to make visitors feel welcome. Sinamatella campsite was far from full and the all the chalets empty. It is however inevitable that as the message of the experiences of people like our selves is net worked, the numbers are bound to escalate. Hwange has a lot to offer! (See photographs).

After a quick visit to the always beautiful Victoria Falls (now even more so as a result of the huge volume of water), we continued to Kasane where we camped for the night, before driving through the Chobe Game reserve en route to the Quando river in the Caprivi strip.

We camped at the Nambwe Community Campsite on the Banks of the Quando river. Although we saw several elephant and other game, the Susuwe triangle and the Horse shoe bend in the river is renowned for its huge herds of elephant and other game, depending on the time of the year and rainfall they migrate to and from the region. It is a unique place and worth a visit. Be warned, even though you may have booked your campsite, you may find it taken and you will have to make a makeshift camp until a campsite is available. . This is not the exception, it happens regularly.

After a night at Rundu on the banks of the Okavango River we drove to Halali campsite via Namutoni in Etosha. Etosha will remain one of our favourite parks. We saw loads of game and lions on every game drive during our four day stay. (Incedentally, we broke a family record by staying at any specific camp for more than 3 days)!

During winter, the waterholes, both at the various camp sites, remain a major attraction for tourists and animals alike. Two resident leopards would visit the waterhole virtually every day. We missed them at every occasion once by five minutes and once by one minute. A miss is as good as a mile.

Throughout the trip, with the exception of the game parks, all the main roads in all the countries travelled, were in excellent condition. Then unfortunately, the time arrives to go home. But there will be a next because, what a wonderful continent we live on. Go and enjoy it!

Johan Zwiegers and Addo

When I was on Honorary Game Ranger duty in Addo over the weekend of 14 May 2011, I coincidentally bumped into Johan Zwiegers who camped next to us. He came over to have a look at out newly acquired Conquerer Companion "Bos-karavaan". Little did I know what pleasant surprize was awaiting me.


He came back later with his camera with a lens almost as big as my caravan and ever so humbly showed me a few photo's which he took during the day. He has since sent me a few more photo's which I include here with his blessing. Absolutely stunning!

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His e-mail address is hanz1@lantic.com.

Coming Up!

Safari 2012
Well the Zimbabwe, Chobe and Namibia trip was even better than expected (See Blog). One thing that we have decided after several tours was that we will preferably travel during summers when the African Bush is beautiful and the animals have young. There are pro's and cons for both, but, for us the pro's for summer traveling outstrip the cons by a significant margin. A comparison supported with photos will appear soon.

For 2012 we plan a tour of the concession areas in Southern Botswana with Imbizo Safari's in March, a quick visit to Tom and Annamarie (and the new baby) in England in August, roughing it in the Kalaghadi in October and simmering in Kruger National Park in December.

Keep following the blog!

KALAGHADI & MABUESEHUBE - 2010

We had last visited the Kalahari Gemsbok Park in the winter of 2002. Even though I have heard contrasting reports about the Mabuasehube side as regards the long distances, deep sandy tracks and low game population and then other interesting adventures with the predators of the region, it would forever have left a void in our travels unless we did it. When my children (Solms and Alitha) came with the suggestion that the family safari for 2010 be to the Kgalagadi and Mabuasehube I reluctantly agreed, more from a family point of view than anything else. When in the course of planning Tom and Anna-marie agreed to fly in from the UK and rent a 4X4, and Sheldon and Pinnie decided to put their Prado to the test, I had no choice. The route would include Augrabies, Tweeriviere, Nossob, Mabuasehube and Pilanesberg.

Tom and Anna-marie who flew to Cape Town collected their rented Toyota D4D Double cab in Cape Town, departed for Springbok with Sheldon and Pinnie on Monday 20 September each with two very energetic toddlers (aged two and four respectively) in tow. Tossie and I left Port Elizabeth very early a day later to do the 1050 kms to Augrabies where we would meet up with the Cape Town contingent.

The idiom states “Early to bed and early to rise makes “Jonathan” healthy, wealthy and wise”. This was obviously ever so true of Jonathan Hearn (aged two) who enjoyed this new found freedom of nature and throughout the safari would act as the early morning alarm clock. Anytime from approximately four (a.m. that is) he would start communicating with whoever was ready or not ready to listen. And he did all this with a lovely victorious smile. Having been woken up early by the “alarm” we got up and faced a very annoying troupe of monkeys who, with enormous agility would snatch anything considered edible particularly from toddlers. Jed Smith (two years of age) was targeted and was scarred for life by “naughty” monkeys.

Alitha and Solms contacted us and informed us that they (accompanied by the Turner Family - Vivienne, Brenda and their three daughters) had left Loeriesfontein early and we arranged to meet in Upington. We broke camp and was ready to leave, but as mentioned, Jonathan enjoyed his new found freedom of the wide expanses of the Northern Cape and decided to go and explore. He was nowhere to be found. After a panic search he was discovered on the edge of the ravine, very pleased with himself as if to say “what was the panic about”.

We reached Upington almost at the same time as the van Niekerks and Turners, filled up vehicles and Gerry Cans with diesel and stocked up with last minute food before embarking for Twee Riviere in the Kgalaghadi some 250 kms north. En route we passed a “bushman” settlement and stopped for a discussion and some photos. Jonathan immediately became part of the “bushman” family and lovingly befriended their dogs.

With the road now tarred all the way to the Park Gates we reached it in comfort despite the fact that the temperature had risen to well into the thirties. We checked in and since we were going to cross the border later into Botswana we also went through their passport controls, which was, by passport control standards, very efficient and friendly accept for the fact that, being a foreign visitor the efficiency of the South African authority of customs control had to be demonstrated to Tom.

The Kalahari which is derived from the Kalagadi word Makgadikgadi meaning “salt pans” or “great thirst land” was originally roamed by the San. Over the years, they were driven out by other clans. Amazingly, towards the end of the 1800’s this dry area became the centre of political “war” between the Brits, Germans and the Hottentots. A century later, in 1939 the Kalahari Gemsbok Park was established, followed a few years later by the Botswana Gemsbok National Park and in 1992 the Mabuasehube game reserve was incorporated. In 1999 the Kalagadi Transfrontier park was established.

We pitched camp at Tweeriviere. With temperatures now approaching 40 °C we decided to only go on a game drive later. From the outset it was clear that the park was extremely dry and the grazing almost down to nothing. Surprisingly the odd springboks, gemsboks and wildebeests still found nutritious grass sprouts and appeared in good condition. In contrast to our visit almost a decade ago, even the normal large numbers of springbok and gemsbok dwindled to a rather sparse occurrence and it was clear that there must have been a migration to more abundant grazing in the transfrontier park. The standard of the grazing further east in Botswana, later proved to be dry but much more abundant and was probably the reason for the low numbers on the South African side. As with our previous visit the “large numbers” of Kalahari lions continued to evade us, but we were however privelaged to have a rare sighting of a playful caracal which entertained us with its antics.

Back at the camp we discovered that a whirlwind had swept right through our camp and were told by our kind neighbours that it had scattered the gazebo, chairs and other light objects all over the camp. They were kind enough to carry it back to our camp and secure it. What good neighbours.

We then prepared supper and it surprised me that, also in contrast to a previous visit, even the number of ground squirrels, mongoose and black backed jackal which would visit camp sites were almost non existent. The drought was obviously devastating.

Our early morning game drive again did not bring us in contact with the reknowned Kgalagadi lions. In fact they evaded us for seven days of traveling the transfrontier park. The severe drought, no doubt played its part. Back at the camp we packed and started our drive to Nossob. At the Melkvlei picnic spot we stopped to have a breakfast of eggs, ham, vienna sausages, green onions and cheese “shaken and stirred” in “ziplock” plastic bags and cooked in boiling water. Clever Alitha. Then on to Nossob to camp for the night before our departure for Matopi 2 campsite on the Botswana side the next morning.

Whilst filling up with diesel and buying some last minute cooldrinks and drinking water, Nell picked up a huge “harmless” centipede much to the concern of the shop attendant who warned that it was poisonous and that blisters will form where she was “stung”. My reaction that South African shongololo’s are not poisonous was proved wrong, when before long, the blisters did appear. Fortunately, by the end of the day it was back to normal.

We were faced with a 200 km stretch of deep sand jeep tracks to our final destination of Lesholoago pan where we were to camp for three nights. Wisely we decided to overnight at the Matopi 2 Campsite. Matopi is the Tswana word for a Shepherd’s Tree and that is exactly what the campsite consisted of. Reaching it was not quite so simple. With the exception of the Smith family, we were all towing heavily laden trailers which reduced our speed to approximately 30 kms per hour. In addition, ever so often a dune with very deep churned up sand tracks would be thrown in our way just for fun. Sheldon was the first victim and I immediately shared my “wisdom of expert sand driving” with him. After a further two approaches he went over the top. I did it with absolute perfection only to get properly stuck on the very next dune. Having cleared it after several attempts, Tom and Anna-marie very exitedly informed me that they had captured it all on video! On the next dune, my wishes came true when they got stuck. However, Tom defended it with an argument that he did not get stuck but had a “refusal”. Perhaps my limited knowledge of the Anglo Saxon language made the refusal appear to me to be very similar to getting stuck properly. After 50 kms of plowing through the soft sand Solms stopped the “convoy” and we enjoyed a few snacks. After approximately 105 kms we reached Matopi 2. We drew a “laager” of five vehicles to protect us against the elusive Kgalagahdi predators, prepared supper and went to bed.

Up to Matopi 2 it was absolutely impossible to get lost. There was one option only and that was to follow the very deep sand jeep track. The road on the second 100 kms to Mabuasehube and Lesholoago appeared slightly more firm and the dunes more user friendly. However, once the pans are reached, road signs are few and far between. You only knew where you were when you arrived at the next pan. In addition, my GPS appeared to give different routes to Solms’. Even so, after a bit of a detour from Mpaathutlwa Pan to Mabuasehube via Khidding Pan we arrived at Lesholoago Pan. Our home for the next three days was a prime camp site as far as position went. Again we drew a laager with the trailers and filled the gaps in with shade cloth boma’s as best we could just in case the predators would become less elusive.

Although the Botswana side of the park was covered in long grass, it was also very dry. The dry sweet grass on the pans was already grazed short, but still provided grazing to a number of springbok, Gemsbok and the odd Hartebeest which would visit it.

While enjoying my early morning coffee the next morning I walked out of the camp site and noticed what I considered to be a hyena, walking away from the waterhole some 200 meters away. Tom took the binoculars and identified it as a big leopard. With nothing much to do at the camp we went for a drive around Lesholoago pan and then continued to Mabuasehube, Khiding and Mpaathutlwa pans before returning to our camp site without much game to be seen. At the Mabuasehube camp site a regular Lesholoago camper confirmed that there is a resident leopard at the camp site. We spent a leisurely afternoon interupted by short drives around the pan and then settled in to make supper.
While preparing to go to bed, a huge very poisonous black scorpion run right between Anna-marie’s feet.

There were several footprints of hyenas around our camp so during the course of the evening Alitha at various occasions remarked that she smelled hyena. This was confirmed by Tom and others. I blamed the nearby toilet for the smell and immagination to do the rest. (I in fact invited the interested parties the next morning on a hyena smelling tour of the toilet outlet). Being alert and (ever so slightly) concerned, just when we were about to go to bed, Solms decided to use his spotlight to see whether he could spot anything around the camp. His surprise was pretty obvious and the response in the camp one of nevousness bordering on panic. Even Bolt could not have gotten the children into the rooftop tents quicker. Not twenty meters from the camp was the huge leopard and still walking towards us. With the noise of the panicking campers, it then turned around casually and started moving away but with no haste. The next morning we found its footprints all around the camp site.

When Sheldon drove around the pan, later during the day, the leopard casually crossed the road right in front of the car and then gave action to the call of nature and relieved itself a few meters away. The fact that Tom and Solms again notice the cat close to camp the next evening has made me speculate (quietly) that the toddlers inside our camp might have been the attraction.

Although we did not see much more game during our stay, the serenity of the park and Kalaghadi is absolutely wonderful.

With a long way to go for the day, we were up early the next morning, to break camp, pack and head for Pilanesberg nearly 700 kms away including some 170 kms of deep sand tracks and a border crossing. The problem was that we had to reach the Pilanesberg park and Manyane Camp, where we would meet with Francois (cousen) and family before closing time. So it was properlies “voet in die hoek” stuff in soft sand jeep tracks which required constant concentration. We phoned Francois and informed him that we would be late. He then “reserved” camp sites and arranged for entry. We reached Manyane at exactly 17h58. Two minutes to spare!

For Vivienne, Brenda and family, more than 600 kms to Keimoes included 134 kms of (according to the Ranger at the Park Gate) not so good road. On top of it, they were now on their own. Vivienne said that we had hardly said good bye to us and could still hear our vehicles when he got stuck. Feeling absolutely deserted, he said it got him close to tears. He never the less got out and got home safely.

Although the lions again avoided us, we saw loads of game, including many Rhinocerous, in the Pilanesberg Game Park. According to Tom, however, the true wilderness experience of the Kalaghadi is lost in these massive Zoo’s. On the third day we drove to Sun City where we enjoyed the “sea” and the various slides. For me it remains to be an impressive place.

During the course of the day Solms started toying with the idea of driving all the way home non stop the next day (1480 kms for him and 1250 for me). After much negotiation we agreed. Sheldon and Pinnie, with their young children decided to rather do it over two days while Tom and Anna-marie who was returning to England from Johannesburg, two days later decided on spending another day at Manyane.

Tom and Anna-marie had only just reached their home in England when Tom was diagnosed as having tick bite fever for which he was prescribed Doxicycline. He said that the two ladies at the pharmacy had a great giggle as they prepared his prescription and only after studying the pamflet accompanying the Doxicycline did the penny drop. Doxicycline is prescribed for a whole list of venerial deseases ......................... and tick bite fever!