Thursday, March 11, 2010

AROUND SOUTH AFRICA

Since Kingsley Holgate was on his outer edge safari around the African continent, we decided to circumvent South Africa and to stay in Game Parks as we go.
The route took us from Port Elizabeth, along the South Eastern coast to Oribi Gorge (20 Km from Port Shepstone, then to St Lucia (Northern KZN) and over Swaziland to Kruger National Park. Then along the Northern border to Mapungubwe National Park (East of Musina on the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana, down the North Western border to Botsalano (near Zeerust) and further to the Northern Cape – Molopo Game
Reserve. We then turned South West to Augrabies National Park, down the west coast to Cape Town where after we follow the Southern coast to Storms River National Park before heading back to where we started.
I maintain that while there is a reason for having destinations, the travel to get there is the greater part of the adventure, and travelling through the former Transkei is just that. Oribi gorge and the surrounds are breathtakingly beautiful and invites hiking shoes and spending some time and energy there. The nearby Leopard Rock (see photo) is a must see.

The whole KZN region is so lush and beautiful. It is however the northern regions of this
province which fascinates us. The St Lucia Estuary is something special and with the Imfolozi / Hluhluwe game Parks near by, it makes it an area where time could be well spent.

Although Swaziland justifies a full scale visit, we simply travelled through it as a short cut to Nelspruit and Kruger National Park. I have been to the Kruger Park numerous times and it will remain to be one of my favourite parks (See also our prioritised list of game parks visited below). It was extremely dry at the time of our visit, but even so, it remains a wonderful place. We entered the park at Krokodil brug in the south and after staying at Lower Sabie and Letaba, we left it
at the Pafuri Gate in the north. The route east of Pafuri remains depressing as a result of the poverty of people staying around the borders of the Park. And the north is nothing different.

Our route took us through the beautiful Tsipise region, through Musina and on to Mapungubwe. Mapungubwe is known for its heritage which is linked with the Zimbabwe ruins and earlier peoples who inhabited the area. The park which borders on Zimbabwe and Botswana, although we did not see too much game, is really something special as regards its beauty and the accommodation very well planned. A visit to the archaeological heritage site is worth while.

Our drive south was planned to use the small game park, Botsalano, near Zeerust as a stop over. We were surprised with the numbers of game including Rhino which we saw, but was disappointed with the upkeep and cleanliness of the facilities. It could be a special little gem if the standards are raised.


From Mafekeng we drove west along the Molopo River which is also the boundary with Botswana. Whereas the first 100 km of the road was good, it turned into a denture grinding vehicle testing nightmare. It was a great relief to eventually reach the Molopo Game Reserve. For us, the Molopo game reserve was again used as a stop over where we did not spend enough time to really judge it. It is typical Kalahari. Whereas the camp site contained all the basics, we did not see much game, other than Gemsbok, on the game drive we did late afternoon and driving right through the park the next day. Then south west to Augrabies. Again, the road over McCarthy’s Rest, Hotazel and Kuruman was something you just had to sit out and wish to reach civilisation.


We have been to Augrabies several times in the past. This was again just an overnight stop. For first time visitors, a visit to Augrabies, it should be considered as more than just a stop over. With all the potential add ons (canoeing, absaling game viewing) in the region, Augrabies is an adventure! In addition, the camp offers a lot and both the camp sites and chalets are good.

The next long drive took us to Stormsriver, which is obviously much different to the other parks visited, but absolutely wonderful with the beautiful coast line, hiking trails and excellent camping and accommodation. It also offers some canoeing and with a bit of luck, you may be entertained by dolphins playing in the surf right in front of your camp site.

Where to?

Although requirements and demands of tourists differ as regards what is considered as the right cup of tea for them, we have, during this trip attempted to prioritise the 30 game/National parks which we have visited and our experiences there over the past decade. Take note that since we like camping and a bit of adventure your list may vary from ours. Even so, this is what we like:

Kruger National Park (Mpumalanga)
Moremi (Botswana)
Chobe (Botsawana)
Ngorongoro (Tanzania)
Serengeti (Tanzania)
Etosha (Namibia)
Savuti (Botswana)
Addo (Eastern Cape)
Kalaghadi National Park (Nothern Cape)
Amboselli (Kenya)
Ruaha (Tanzania)
Pilanesberg
Nxai pan (Botswana)
Kgama Rhino Sanctuary (Botswana)
Hluhluwe/Mofolozi (KZN)
Wangie (Zimbabwe)
Stormsriver National Park (Eastern Cape)
Mapungubwe National Park (Northern Province)
Victoria Falls Park (Zimbabwe)
Matoppos National Park (Zimbabwe)
Sossus Vlei (Namibia)
Richtersveld (Northern Cape)
Cradock Mountain Zebra Park (Eastern Cape)
Botsalano Park (North Western Province)
Karoo National Park (Western Cape)
Swellendam Bontebok Park
St Lucia Estuary
Augrabies National Park (Northern Cape)
Cape Point National Park (Western Cape)
Molopo Game Park (North Western Province)
Parque de Bahine de Mozambique

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