Kgalagadi and Friends

For me the statement that “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone” works. The Kgalagadi threw itself at us both in all its meanness and its wonderful abundance. Drought, temperatures hovering around the mid forties daily and pleasant surprises around every corner was the norm. When this is shared with quality friends who found joy in every moment that mother nature could provide, it all augers for great joy. My university roommate of more than half a century ago (Dr Francois (Faf) Malan) who was thrown into the deep end of camping, accompanied me and Johan Zwiegers (Hanz Zwiegers Photography) on a camping safari through the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park at the beginning of November. The itinerary would include Rooiputs (three days), Polentswa (two days) , Nossob and Mata,Mata (each three days).

True to tradition, on our first night at Rooiputs, the lions roared uncomfortably close to our tents, so much so that Johan, who was sleeping in a very small hiking tent pleaded for refuge in our Oz Tent. For the moment he was totally out of his comfort zone. As unsympathetic as his uninterrupted snoring was to me, Faf made him “understand clearly” that there was not enough space for comfort in our tent but gave him several “wise” actions that he could apply in self defence. It worked because Johan was still around at dawn the next day. With Rooiputs as base we found Kij Kij waterhole very rewarding (lion, doves and sand grouse) and on a circular drive around the lower Dune Road we met with Neil and Lynne Hunter in their mobile home who told us that there were two cheetahs on a kill at the Auchterloni waterhole. We were even more fortunate when the two came running right past us soon after we stopped. Then followed two lions (Leeudril) obviously suffering from the heat and several secretary birds (Rooiputs waterhole). Late afternoon we again found a lion at Kij Kij. The next morning early (en route to Polentswa) four cheetah crossed the road right in front of us and twenty kilometres south of Polentswa, three female and one heavily maned male lion relaxed right next to the road.

Polentswa waterhole produced. Over the two days, in addition to plains game, lion, black backed jackals and many raptors (Bataleur Eagles, Roof Arende and Vultures) would entertain us and provide wonderful photographic opportunities.

On our drive to move camp to Nossob we found nine lions at Kwang. We were fortunate to see Kudu at Cubitje Quap, but the resident jackal entertained us with absolutely cunning hunting skills when he managed to catch six sand grouse in approximately 20 minutes and then included a fight with a visiting jackal. We were also fortunate to see an African wild cat with a ground squirrel kill. While lions roared around the camp every night, Johan, our delegated nightly representative at the camp waterhole was rewarded with one sighting of a lion and brown hyena.

Take note that with daily temperatures in the mid forties we drank in access of three litres of water daily. As a result of the drought every waterhole as well as ablution facilities had a large population of honey bees. With two allergic companions it created all but a comfortable environment. In fact, while taking a shower, Johan was stung by a bee, but with Faf (our personal doctor in attendance) he suffered no ill effects.

The Mata Mata area added Giraffes to the variety of game and the Craig Lockhard waterhole treated us with good sightings of the latter and of cheetahs. The visit of three lions to the camp waterhole at 20h00 was a pleasant surprise. At the camp even any hope of a slight cooling breeze deserted us day and night. It was so hot that early morning drives were followed by returning to camp to find refuge in the shade of out tent under the Camel thorn tree with regular visits to the swimming pool where you would submerge yourself “boots and all”. Another character of this area is that, in contrast to the other camps, there is only one road which one can travel. This obviously results in that there could be more congestion at waterholes and at sightings.

The cherry on the cake came on our way out via Twee Rivieren with a sighting of a leopard just south of Auchterloni.

In summary, in addition to Giraffes and all the normal plains game (Springbok, Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok) which we as spoilt South Africans so often regard as standard, we saw a total of 27 lions (seven sightings), 9 cheetahs (three sightings) and a leopard. Because of the dry conditions, patience at select waterholes (for us Kij Kij, Cubitje Quap, Polentswa, Craig Lockhart and Dalkeith was good) rather than driving through the park, was most rewarding and made for excellent photographic opportunities. May I add, that at almost all of these sightings, blocking of views by other vehicles were rare! Kgalagadi and quality friends impressed!!!!

Half a century of Kruger National Park

Somewhere earlier in this blog I have listed the number of parks which we have visited over the years. Most of these, particularly those to the north of South Africa, has been during the past two decades. However, I have been introduced to the Kruger National Park in 1848 at the age of six years. I can still vividly recall being impressed by seeing so many impala, blue wildebeest and zebra within a few kilometers of entering the park en route to Pretorius Kop. Little did we know what numbers of Impala we would see ove the following days. We stayed in the rondavels of which I found a photo recently at the Pretorius Kop reception.

Pretorius Kop 1948

Later on at Skukuza we found a tented camp which to me was almost as big as the little town, in the Eastern Cape, from which we came. I remember that my sister got the fright of her life when she walked out in the middle of the night to investigate a noise from outside. She met with the hyena who turned the dustbin over. (In contrast to nowadays it was highly unlikely to be a burglar). We saw "all" the game that my little memory could accommodate and it stuck there for many years. My next visit was only some 30 years later in the early 70's. The Park was as impressive with several new, but more subtle developments.

Berg en Dal 2012

 But as for the country, several things have changed also in Kruger National Park over the years. The most noticable is certainly the popularity of the park both to local  as to  foreign tourists. Oviously, in response to its popularity and tourist demands, the acommodation and facilities have, particularly since the eighties, been upgraded to a high standard. Many camps now have shops, restaurants, decks from which to view game while having something to eat or drink, swimming pools and offer entertainment and information evenings for the children. Picnic spots have been developed for further convenience of the tourists.

Letaba

 These developments further contribute to the popularity of the park. While these developments are enjoyed by all, it is understandable that with such popularity some more "personal" experiences have become few and far between. It is now hardly necessary to attempt to spot lions or leopards. Where such sightings have been made you will find quite a large number of cars which compete with each other for the best position. The matter is further by game drive vehicles which claim the right to the best spot.

In the earlier days, there were spots where you were allowed to leave the safety of your car and walk to selected spots where you will find your safety from a ranger armed with a .303 rifle.

But as they say: "The old days were always good!" Having said that, something that will always be good is the beauty of the park, its fauna and flora. Since every park has its own attractions and character to go and enjoy, it is unfair and wrong to to compare and compete. I go to the lot as often as I can. Even so, I have been visited the Kruger National Park several times and will certainly go there again and again. After my first experience more half a century ago, I still rate it as one of the best.

 

Yet another visit to Kruger National Park

Some people do and others don't. I am one of the many who loves Kruger National Park. Oh yes there are negatives. First of all, we all would like the park exclusively to ourselves and a "private" lion sighting. Ever wondered why so many people gothere?  Why is it so popular? Why is it so often booked out?

Popular cat!!!

  Having been to many parks all over Southern and Central Africa, I still rate KNP as one of the best. One of the best if it is variety in game, vegetation, topography, birds and just about everything is concerned. On the other hand, if your primary requirement is adventure and off roading such as in low range 4x4 stuff or you wish for a night time visit to your campsite or tent of some predator or one of the big five or anything wild and wonderful, then may be one of the unfenced camps in Botswana or Mana Pools ...(All of which I love)   is where you want to be. The point is that KNP is not the only park and it is not in competition with other parks. The Kruger National Park is the Kruger National Park and lots of it!

On a recent visit where I drove into the park daily for six days as a day visitor fro Hazyview I again was treated by exciting game viewing even though I could not drive very far the park. Drives around the Sabie River, towards Satara and even to and from the Pambeni gate never dissapointed. So was Lake Panic.

Rare opprtunity

Just playful!

On the hunt?



The charge.




Midday nap!




Graceful!




Family time.




Got it!

 My children and their families are serious Africa Travellers so that KNP was "not for them". Yet, based on my (amplified) experiences and some photographic evidence the whole family will enjoy KNP again for fourteen days in the winter of 2014.




The most beautiful!!!!!

 

ROUTES

 As a result mainly of business commitments I was fortunate to make several trips to Europe (Spain, France, Portugal, Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, Italy, Greece, England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, the Eastern Block (Poland, The Tsech Republic, Hungary), the Far East (Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Hong Kong, China), Turkey, Israel, the United States of America, Mexico, Brazil, Australia and Mauritius. Whereas these travels enriched and particularly broadened my vision it was always Africa and its wild life that interested me. This very basic map indicates the routes that we have traveled in Africa over the past two decades.

Out travels include (in several cases many) vists to the following African countries and Parks:


South Africa: Addo, Tsitsikamma, Kruger, Umfolozi, Mountain Zebra, Camdeboo, Kalaghadi Transfrontier Park, Karoo, Pilanesberg, Drakensberg, Mapungubwe, Oribi Gorge, Molopo, De Hoop, Bontebok, Richtersveld, Hluhluwe, St Lucia.

Botswana: Chobe, Savuti, Moremi, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Kalahari Transfrontier Park, Mabuesehube, Kaa Concession area, Nxai Pans.

Kenya: AmbosellI.

Malawi: Nkhotakhota

Morocco: Erg Chebbi

Mozambique: Parc de National de Banhine, Parc de Limpopo

Namibia: Etosha, Kaokoveld, Namib, NamibNaukluft (Sossus Vlei), Fishriver Canyon, Caprivi (Bwabwata),Hardap

Swazi Land

Tanzania: Ruahwa, Ngorongoro, Serengeti

Zambia

Zimbabwe: Hwangi, Nyanga, Matobo, Victoria Falls,

CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE - MARCH 2013



Khutsi Gate



“Do not spoil a good story with facts” – the saying goes. This is often true of some individuals in the 4X4 community. I have had several personal experiences where it is obvious that there was a freedom to exaggerate. Having, over the years, been to virtually every other game reserve in Botswana from the South to the North, a visit to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) was a long time coming. The plan was to visit the reserve with two vehicles (my and Johan Zwieger’s) in March 2013. The plan almost did not materialise when circumstance reduced the number of vehicles to one, and respondents on the internet considered such an adventure silly – “If something happens to you or your vehicle it is tickets!” Even so Johan and I did the silly thing after all.



CKGR SUNSET





Bateleur Adult & Young




Johan Zwiegers




Khama Rhino Sanctuary



Our route would take us from Port Elizabeth, first to Khutsi Game Reserve and thereafter to the CKGR. On entry to Khutsi it was clear that the area was very dry. Our typical and lovely Botswana camp site (Mahurushele) was under a large Camel thorn tree. Over the next two days we travelled all the roads in the reserve. It being so dry and very hot, game (mostly springbuck, Gemsbok and Blue Wildebeest) was scarce and we accepted that they have migrated north (?). Even so, there were surprises. We saw a huge Black Mamba (a first for me) which (fortunately) sped away with its head raised and several raptors including a whole family of Bateleur Eagles at the Khutsi waterhole. While we heard a lion roar through the night we did not see any. In order not to chance fate, our route from Khutsi was to Khama Rhino Sanctuary as an overnight stop. As always, Khama Rhino Sanctuary remains to be an impressive little game park with equally good camping facilities. Then via Rakops where we entered the CKGR through the Matswere Gate.

We were full of expectation to meet with large numbers of (migrated) game followed by the handsome Kalahari Lions. Over the following six days, we camped at Sundays Pan, Passarge Pan, Litiahua and Kori Pans. Again it was clear that it was extremely dry. (We were informed later that the last proper rain fell in January). Sundays Pan was totally deserted but we found considerable numbers of Springbuck, Gemsbok and Blue Wildebeest on the noticeably greener Leopard Pan, approximately 10 kms to the North and a very placid lioness at the Sundays Pan waterhole. She allowed a very courageous warthog, who must have had loads of confidence in his accelerating abilities, to have a drink of water ten meters from where she was residing for the afternoon. During the afternoon, localised thunderstorm showers fell towards Deception Pan with several pools in the road (and treacherous very slippery mud) during our (unsuccessful) search of lions in that area the following day.

After two nights at Sundays Pan we drove down the Passarge valley and camped at Passarge Campsite 2. Again, temperatures exceeded 45 ºC. As we sat in the shade gathering momentum to pitch camp, a vehicle, driven by an attractive young French lady approached us to enquire whether we were OK. Over our time in CKGR we met with several people (including French, English, Australian, two German ladies) travelling on their own and some exiting the park through the Xade gate – a 68 km drive and a further 180 km of deep sand to Ghanzi! Although we might have been developing a wrong perception, we got the impression that it is highly unlikely that someone will not come along within 24 hrs should you have problems. So if you have enough water and fuel, for say three days and stay with your vehicle, the risks are limited. Admittedly, we were there in the dry season which makes travelling and getting stuck less of a risk.

While the Passarge Valley impressed us, again, with the exception of entertainment from a badger, game was limited. In fact, it was so devoid of life that we decided not to stay another night but to move to Letiahau with its famous lions. So we drove there via the Passarge waterhole. Although we found a (well hidden) lion at the (dry Letiahau) water hole, being keen photographers, our photo’s taken around Letiahau gives evidence of having been forced to concentrate on birds, more badgers and (fortunately) a some 400 strong energetic herd of springbuck performing in the cool of the early morning. It was now our plan to drive to Piper pan in search of adventure, but soon we met with the (despondent) French couple who were just returning from Piper pan with the news that there was absolutely no game. As a last effort we decided to return to the Sundays pan area where, at least, we saw life. At the Sundays pan waterhole we were informed that all campsites in the area was taken but were offered a campsite at Kori Campground. Since it was already late, we drove to Kori where we camped at a very tidy campsite for our last (and peaceful night) in the CKGR.

In conclusion, our experience can be summarised as follows:

• As with all off road safaris, sightings can not be guaranteed. In our case, having seen many lion tracks in the road, we might simply have been unlucky as a result of the coincidence of circumstances (drought).

• While I would not travel from the north to Khutsi in one vehicle and while there are risks of travelling in one vehicle only, our experience was that the risk is not as high as some people would like to make it sound and deter prospective tourists from visiting northern CKGR.

• I have always maintained that engaging 4X4 is probably only required in less than 1% of travels, but when it is required, it is more than 100% necessary. It is unlikely that you will get stuck in the dry season if you have some experience of sand driving. Having said that, I will always, even in the dry season take recovery gear. In the rainy season safety lies in numbers of vehicles.

• Water and fuel (petrol or diesel) are probably the most important items to carry. In our case (high temperatures) we managed (sparingly) with 2.5 liters per person per day, but 3 liters plus would be better.

• Finally, if it is the serenity of being in nature on your own you are looking for, CKGR is the place for you. Alternatively, it could be great fun for a group camping together. For us, who were in search of game and predators, the experience was disappointing. Hopefully, it will be better next time.




Sunday Pan Lioness

 Sun