Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Zimbabwe, Chobe, Caprivi and Etosha

Despite the deterring publicity, Zimbabwe has been on our list of places to go to (again) for some time. I say “again” since we have lived in Zimbabwe temporarily from 1972 to 1974 and have driven through it during 1997 and again 1998, but have never really experienced it properly since the 70’s. So after debating our annual safari with Solms and Alitha, we settled on Matopos and Hwange (followed by Chobe, Bwabwata (Nambwe) in the Caprivi and Etosha) for this year with the intention of doing the north (Matusadonna and Mana Pools) next year.

We entered the country through the “Plumtree” border post and stayed at the Maleme Dam campsite in the beautiful Matobo National Park. Even though it is pretty clear that park does not enjoy a peak in its economy, (there were two more campers) the friendly service that we got from the young lady at the campsite proved that they still have hope and pride. From Matobo we drove to Hwange National Park via Bulawayo. Bulawayo still reflects signs of the former beauty of the colonial era, but the economic and political realities have obviously taken its toll. We soon met with the first of several police road blocks, of which we were well pre-warned by the media and the local people. Our vehicles were inspected for the required reflectors and questions asked, but as so many things in life, we were invariably treated with the respect that we showed for the police. No aggression and no bribes. A the last road block before leaving Zimbabwe, in response to my remark of the effect of the negative publicity on the country, the female police officer said “Yes as if we eat people”. Yet, poverty causes strange actions and we were warned by locals to be patient at road blocks and to avoid lay bye’s.

We entered Hwange at the Main Camp entrance and after registering, we continued to the Sinamatella campsite. We were welcomed by very friendly staff and the resident elephant, Kapula. We camped there for three days and enjoyed the beautiful setting of the camp. Again, although the roads network and the infrastructure shows clear signs of lack of upkeep, the staff does their utmost, with the little they have, to make visitors feel welcome. Sinamatella campsite was far from full and the all the chalets empty. It is however inevitable that as the message of the experiences of people like our selves is net worked, the numbers are bound to escalate. Hwange has a lot to offer! (See photographs).









After a quick visit to the always beautiful Victoria Falls (now even more so as a result of the huge volume of water), we continued to Kasane where we camped for the night, before driving through the Chobe Game reserve en route to the Quando river in the Caprivi strip.





We camped at the Nambwe Community Campsite on the Banks of the Quando river. Although we saw several elephant and other game, the Susuwe triangle and the Horse shoe bend in the river is renowned for its huge herds of elephant and other game, depending on the time of the year and rainfall they migrate to and from the region. It is a unique place and worth a visit. Be warned, even though you may have booked your campsite, you may find it taken and you will have to make a makeshift camp until a campsite is available. . This is not the exception, it happens regularly.

After a night at Rundu on the banks of the Okavango River we drove to Halali campsite via Namutoni in Etosha. Etosha will remain one of our favourite parks. We saw loads of game and lions on every game drive during our four day stay. (Incedentally, we broke a family record by staying at any specific camp for more than 3 days)!

During winter, the waterholes, both at the various camp sites, remain a major attraction for tourists and animals alike. Two resident leopards would visit the waterhole virtually every day. We missed them at every occasion once by five minutes and once by one minute. A miss is as good as a mile.

Throughout the trip, with the exception of the game parks, all the main roads in all the countries travelled, were in excellent condition. Then unfortunately, the time arrives to go home. But there will be a next because, what a wonderful continent we live on. Go and enjoy it!

1 comment:

  1. Beautifull pictures...and as I read your report I realise that you enjoyed it all the way. Sorry that you missed the leopards !!

    Next month it's my turn...cannot wait.

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