Sunday, September 12, 2010

Eastern Cape Passes by Motorcycle

My wish to do a camping motorcycle tour would have to wait untill I reached the age of 68, but I needed company. It was by pure coincedence that I heard of Rufus Dreyer who had just bought a Kawasaki KLR 650 with the intention of riding from Cape to Cairo during 2011 and that he was keen to do a practice run. His friend Arthur Loretz joined in but so did Murphy. On the night before our departure Arthur phoned with the news that, no matter what he tried, his BMW 1200 GS just would not start. He nevertheless had a plan B in the form of a Honda Goldwing. Since the route would take us over two rather rugged passes, this meant that Arthur would have to stick to the tar and and wait for us at the next town.

On Saturday 4 September we departed from Port Elizabeth and after a refreshment at Nanaga and petrol at Paterson, we split with Arthur who was going on to Somerset East via Cookhouse while Rufus and I took on the old Zuurberg pass with our KLR's loaded with camping gear. The 18 km ride up to the now renovated Zuurberg Hotel was good, whereafter the road became very rough and rocky which governed speed to below 50km/h. The views were wonderful and it brought back memories of our travels from Somerset East to Port Elizabeth in the fifties before the construction of the "new" tar road network. I was happy with the adventure but was equally happy when we reached the bottom and rode past Ann's Villa. The next 45 km of dirt road went a lot quicker and we joined Arthur at the Somerset East Hotel for lunch. Then on to Pearston and Graaff Reinet in a howling head wind. After 416 km we reached Graaff Reinet where we pitched camp for the night at the Urquhard Camp.

The next morning we rode to Aberdeen where we had breakfast at the road house before continuing to Beaufort West. The weather was beautiful and our ride through the Karoo ansolutely wonderful. After Beaufort West we continued to Klaarstroom where we split up again with Arthur riding to Oudtshoorn via De Rust while Rufus and I rode towards Prins Albert to do the Swartberg Pass. This pass proved to be more intimidating than difficult. It was as if the almost perpendicular drops from the side of the road, the loose gravel and oncoming traffic on blind hairpins was intent on sending you down the pass in a rather quick shortcut. Even so we reached the top and enjoyed the beauty of the pass and the scenery. Then on to Oudtshoorn. After 409 kms we rode into the Kleinplaas camp site and pitched camp. Then on to the Spur restaurant where we parked our motorcycles. No sooner had we ordered or a staff member informed us that someone has just bumped the first motorcycle and all went down domino style. It meant repairs later into the night, but all is well that ends well.


The next morning it started drisling as we left for George. When we reached the Outeniqua pass the road was pretty wet and slippery so that we took it very calm. From George to Plettenberg Bay it rained properly and my Jeans proved totally inadequate as rain gear. Having reached Plet, I took of my wet clothes and dressed myself in my cleanest dirty, but dry clothes. Here my two friends convinced me that we just have to do the Bloukrans Pass even though it is closed. So on reaching the toll gate on the way to the pass, Rufus was told that it is closed and was warned that we would have to turn back and again pay the toll fee. Challenge accepted. Within one hundred meters we reached a barrier which spanned the full road, but without stopping Rufus dissapeared into the bush and reappeared a few meters further. Without looking back he continued down the pass. We took it as that he expected of us to do the same. We did. The pass was absolutly awesome and probably one of the most beautiful places in the country. When we reached the top the toll lady's warning made sence, but again this did not deter my friends from their plans. After studying the more than one meter high earth wall which ran from the bank on the one side of the road to the edge of the cliff on the other, Rufus charged the bank with the KLR with Arthur as extra power. The KLR and a mud sprayed Arthur reached the top. Then a repeat performance for my KLR. The problem became a bit bigger when it came to the 315 kg Goldwing as apposed to 183 kg KLR's. Even so, after a great scrumming performance by Rufus and driving the Goldwing from the side, a, this time muddy Rufus and the Goldwing completed the hillclimb successfully.

Now it was straight home. Accept for a very strong side wind, the ride was completed after 395 kms for the day. The next one would be to escort the Dreyer group into somewhere in Africa on their way to Cairo. Watch this space.



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