If getting away is what you want, then this is it, provided you get away with a group of positive people. The group of seven vehicles containing 17 people, drove from the Western Cape, Eastern Cape and Gauteng to meet at the Boereplaas camp site near Vryburg as an overnight stop. From here the route was via Bray on the Botswana border on to Cornwell Lodge where we camped. Here Mr Man, our tracker (GPS and map), joined and guided us along the sand track towards Mabuasehube from which we turned off to camp at Heinie’s Pan some 20 km north of the Khokotsa - Mabuasehube road on an overgrown jeep track. We all had seed covers over our radiators, but the one meter high grass necessitated regular stops to remove grass seeds from the radiators and particularly around the exhaust areas to prevent it igniting. This procedure continued for the next five days. We pitched camp on a spot overlooking the pan and had a lovely relaxed evening. Having now “thawed” and having become too comfortable with each other, over the following days, humour and chirps escalated exponentially to an unequalled level and was maintained throughout the rather trying trip – happiness in Africa proved to be the Kalahari mixed with this group.
Although we were warned that this is lion country, as is often the case, complacency sets in, particularly under the influence of the tranquillity of the area. So, the next morning, minutes after Johan returned from a casual stroll in the bush armed with toilet paper and a shovel, some lions passed the very spot where he had sat. Mr Man showed us the lion’s “camp”, where they rested for the night, which proved to be an uncomfortably 100 meters from our camp.
The second day saw us return to the sand track leading to Mabuasehube which we entered and drove past Monamodi, Mabuesehube, Lesholoago and Maputhathulwa Pans before returning to Heinie’s Pan. With the pans dry, game was limited and only a few springbok, gemsbok, hartebeest, blue wildebeest, vultures and jackal were sighted. From here we again drove into the concession area. Now, with no roads to follow, we were at the mercy of Mr Man, the tracker to direct us to various pans with several tight squeezes through the bush accompanied by many chirps, remarks and “advice” over the radios. We pitched camp, a little more aware of the fact that we were in fact intruders in the game and more importantly the lion’s domain. However, as the evening progressed “bravery” and sharp witted remarks again took over without any further thought given to this fact.
The Day Four route was a slow barely forty kilometres. The route not only necessitated tight squeezes through the bushes but now also occasionally required having to drive over the odd bush. We reached “camp” around lunch time and pitched camp to enjoy another beautiful Kalaghadi sunset. After supper the discussion point was whether the growing cloud cover predicted rain. By bed time, one of the more confident forecasters of rain, did not trust his own prediction and was hell bent on going to sleep on the pan. With threats from all sides he was eventually convinced not to go, so, to enjoy the Kalaghadi air, he pitched his tent without a fly sheet. By about one o’clock his forecast proved right. A rather confused rush around in total darkness and rain, in an attempt to cover the tent with a now missing fly sheet and with several onlookers chirping from their tents, followed. A bit later, lions, passing on the edge of the pan, just below our camp, roared continuously, accompanied by the sound of tent zips being closed with speed. Their tracks were followed the next day, but it veered of into the bush, which we were advised not too follow on foot!
Day five again was a drive further west through (and over) thick bush including driving along the edges of several pans. The pans were now pretty wet and treacherous so that the our route had to be skilfully selected by Hennie in his big Cruiser. He led us up a gentle incline to the edge of a huge dune overlooking the Kalahari plains stretching for many kilometres in all directions to the horizon. What a sight! We then returned to …………….. pan where we camped and amidst the sharp humour of the group, together with the Gemsbuck grazing on the pan enjoyed the tranquillity of the Kalaghadi sun set.
It rained all night so that our departure for the Kaa concession area was somewhat delayed. The Kaa area was absolutely stunning and was covered with lush meter high grass from horizon to horizon. No wonder that it accommodates two herds of springbuck estimated at six thousand each. While a previous group enjoyed this spectacle, they are not bound to the road and although we saw several smaller groups of springbuck, we may be more lucky next time!
Our route continued to Kang via Hukuntsi and back to the Cornwell Lodge for a much needed hot water shower and another entertaining evening with Mr Man giving us a repeat performance of his busman dance. All that remained was a good sleep and a long return trip to our homes, but this would certainly not be the end. Good friendships had been moulded with the fellow tourists and a permanent bond with the expanses of the Kalaghadi Concession area. There will certainly be a next time!
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