“Why don’t you just keep the
camera in your hand instead of taking it out ever second minute”. Ever had the
experience that every scene justifies another photo? Let alone the camps. We all met at Windhoek where adventure started
with a BANG! As if the itinerary was not already packed with several ultimate
adventures offered by this wonderful and pristine part of Namibia, the
introductory dinner at Joe’s Beer house in Windhoek gave the tour a huge kick
start. To say thank you to our tour leader, Hennie Pieterse of Imbizo Safari’s
at this stage would be totally premature since many “thank you’s” were to come!
The group of 17 People in nine vehicles, now properly psyched up by the
previous evening’s experience, embarked on the long stretch to the Epupa falls
via Opuwo. In contrast to my previous visit to Epupa some 12 years ago, things
changed remarkably. Now a tar road runs all the way to Opuwo followed by a good
dirt road from Opuwo to Epupa. Opuwo had now also expanded to a large
settlement. At Opuwo all cars and other containers were filled up with Diesel
in preparation for seven day’s travel before diesel would be available again
(hopefully).
The falls are just impressive,
particularly if you go to the trouble of climbing the hill overlooking the
falls. So were the few young Himba girls in traditional dress (?) who came to
our camp to impress all.
Day three saw Hennie leading us
to our “camp” near the top of van Zyl’s Pass. We pitched camp for a night under
the stars and had a visit from a Himba tending his cattle. Although we could
not understand what he asked us for, he never the less loaded every gift onto
his donkey and rode off, after his brief visit, smoking a cigarette. A much
more subdued evening. (Consequences of the previous evening or anticipation of
van Zyl’s Pass??). We reached the pass after a few preparatory challenging
“climbs” where, with Hennie’s guidence, we were led carefully down Van Zyl’s
the Pass. “Slowly, Careful now. A little left. More. Straight. No! No brakes!
Ok, you re through”. The expression in the vehicle one of victory. (But why
then the perspiration? Adrenalin?) Then, halfway down the pass, the breath
taking view over the plains of the Marienfluss. This may be a premature
statement as regards this report, but the scenes and scenery of the endless
expanse of this barren part of the world never ends. All along the way we meet
with Himbas and their herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats which are
in a remarkable condition despite the grazing being extremely dry and short. We
stop for a moment at the Jan Joubert memorial where we add 17 stones with ou r names written on it to the already impressive
collection. The expanse of the Marienfluss valley is so impressive, but so is
every next scene. Then on to our next camp under the stars in the Hartman
Mountains.
With the arrangement that the
occupants of every car is responsible for supper on one allocated evening, it
soon developed into a significant competition. Obviously this escalated as the
safari progressed. Every next supper hoping to outdo the previous. Suppers grew
to include snacks with special dips, main course with side dishes and puddings
(Yes! And that in the desert). As the competition escalated, the competitors
had to add to the standard of the previous cooks. The courses then included
some sponsored drinks with Jägermeister to wash it all down. What a feast.
Needless to say we all went to bed in good spirits.
We drive through the Hartman
Valley with its interesting Fairy Circles and often small herds of Oryx,
springbok and zebra. Memories are made with “special” photos at the renowned
Blue and Red drums. Our next destination, the luxury of Marble Camp with its
hot water showers and real toilets!
The next day we drove down the
Khumib and Hoanib riverbeds through some spectacular mountain scenery to our
camp near Purros hoping to meet with some desert elephants. No such luck.
On the eighth day we drive
through Purros, across the equally impressive and endless Ganias Flats. Then we
enter the Hoanib River (dry!) and again wish to spot some desert elephants
which often frequent this stretch. We find several giraffe and kudu instead. We
pitch another bush camp in an exceptionally beautiful spot in the shade of a
hill on the banks of the Hoanib river.
We travel further in the Hoanib
river and although we again see giraffe, Oryx and springbuck, the elusive
elephants are presumably further south. We passed through the Poort and later
through Ams Poort before we exited the river bed and drove to Sesfontein. Not
only was the diesel supply a relief for several, but so was the pool,
refreshments and a light lunch at Fort Sesfontein. Our next camp at Palmwag was
again bliss with hot water showers and YES ELEPHANTS. They came to find us and
that right at our camp!!! (Unfortunately and unbeknown to Hennie, Palmwag lodge
and ablution blocks were under construction with several ablutions out of use).
Even so, we had a great time.
Day eleven saw us driving south
for a brief stop and a bite at the Burnt Mountain before continuing along the
jeep track through an area of rolling hills consisting of rocks and more rocks.
The route took us over the interesting Divorce Pass and down another river
track to the interesting Ugab River Camp. Here we were warned that the area
around our campsite is frequently visited by lions. While it certainly raised
some eyebrows, strangely enough, this concern appeared to gradually become of
minor importance as the evening progressed.
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